Here's the instructions from ALLEXPERTS:
Ford: Ball Joint Replacement Removal
Remove the brake disc. Remove the wheel speed sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09.
Remove and discard the cotter pin and nut.
Disconnect the tie-rod end.
Remove and discard the cotter pin and the nut.
Remove the pinch bolt adjuster.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the ball joint seal and the ball joint socket, do not use a pickle fork-type remover to loosen the ball joints.
Remove the front wheel spindle.
Strike the lower end of the front axle to loosen the ball joint.
Remove the front wheel spindle.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Check and, if necessary, align the front end.
Remove the wheel spindle assembly. For additional information, refer to Wheel Spindle — E150-E450 in this section.
Position the front wheel spindle in a vise, and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
CAUTION: To avoid damage to the components, do not use heat to aid ball joint removal.
Using the special tool and suitable receiver cup, remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle.
Using the special tool and suitable receiver cup, remove the upper ball joint.
Installation
CAUTION: To avoid damage to components, do not use heat to aid installation.
NOTE: Clean the wheel knuckle ball joint bores.
NOTE: The lower ball joint must be installed first.
Using the special tool with suitable receiver cups, install the lower ball joint.
Using the special tool with suitable receiver cups, install the upper ball joint.
Install the snap ring in the groove at the bottom of the ball joint.
Install the front wheel spindle.
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From the ARRC (Auto Repair Reference Center) of the local library:
Ball Joint
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
Remove the steering knuckle assembly and secure it in a vise.
Remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
CAUTION
Do not use heat to aid ball joint removal.
Using the special tool and suitable receiver cup, press the lower ball joint from the knuckle.
Using the special tool and suitable receiver cup, press the upper ball joint from the knuckle.
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In both cases cited here, they make it sound like it's a breeze to "remove the steering knuckle" or "wheel spindle".... but, don't use the two methods that might actually work (the pickle fork or heat...)
Again, I understand that too much heat is gonna mess things up with respect to the metal's tensile strength, so I'm not gonna heat the whole steering arm up, just apply heat to the top of the ball joint threads, hoping it works its' way down into the joint to loosen things...
The pickle fork I have is for ball joints, not for tie rod ends, but as you can see from the picture, the fork is not wide enough to go around the ball joint at the base of the tapered shaft.
So, it's a brand new day, and I'm gonna go hit it (literarlly!) and hope/pray that this thing drops right outta the arm (with a little force...).
If not, then I'm screwed and have to resort to further violence. Why is it that the simple part of a job always turns into the unpredicted nightmare like this??? You'd think that a big enough bolt/cotter pin would have kept this ball joint in place without it having to fit this tight.
Thanks for the responses, guys... It helps to know that I'm not just missing something that's right in front of my eyes. I was a fighter jet (F-4 Phantom II's) mechanic in the '70's, so it's not like I'm a newbie with mechanical stuff. I've pulled and installed some pretty major stuff over the years. Sometimes the little stuff just stops a man cold in his tracks, tho. (A .22 bullet to the brain will stop a 600 lb man cold in his tracks, too, right???)
Still open to suggestions, but I'm rethinking the idea of doing the passenger side, unless (after I jack it up) I see that there's play on that side, too.
Thanks again in advance,
Joe
