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Old 05-03-2008, 06:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
mpeoples
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Default AX4S Connector Pinouts - Solenoid Testing

Sorry for the delay, seriously busy at work.

That manual I mentioned will have the pinouts. I only have references for the AXODE & AX4S, but because the valve body of the AX4N is so similar and the connector appears to be identical, it's probably a safe bet that the pinouts are the same.

Well, I drew you a picture before I realized that I can't put it in the reply. So here are the PINOUTS of the connector on top of the AX4N case (wire color in parentheses):

1 - EPC Ground (Blue)
2 - EPC/MCCC Power (Green)
3 - SS3 Ground (Yellow)
4 - MCCC (TCC) Ground (Brown)
5 - SS1, SS2 , SS3 Power (Red)
6 - SS1 Ground (Orange)
7 - TOT- (Black)
8 - SS2 Ground (Pink)
9 - TOT+ (White)

First, these colors and pinouts may not match your transmission. Over time, the wire colors fade significantly, so you really need to look at a connector diagram. I'll describe the connector as you would see it if you were looking straight down at it from above.

The connector's "top" two corners are "chamfered" and the "bottom" of the connector has a row of three pins. The bottom, "left" side has only one pin. There are three "rows" of pins and/or four "columns" of pins. So if you are correctly oriented, then think of this like a grid with row 1 at the top of the connector, row 2 below that, and row 3 at the bottom. Column 1 is on the left side (and has only one pin), column 2 is to the right of that, column 3 to the right of that, and column 4 on the right side of the connectors.

So, using this "grid" the pins are as follows:

Pin 1 - Row 1, Column 2
Pin 2 - Row 2, Column 2
Pin 3 - Row 2, Column 1
Pin 4 - Row 3, Column 2
Pin 5 - Row 3, Column 3
Pin 6 - Row 3, Column 4
Pin 7 - Row 2, Column 4
Pin 8 - Row 2, Column 3
Pin 9 - Row 1, Column 3

Testing the five solenoids in the case consists (potentially) of three tests. One is a resistance test (which is what you're going to perform), the second is a ground check, and the third is a function test (which you have to be careful with). The resistance test consists of testing the resistance (ohms) through the solenoid. To do this, you set the multimeter to a low range (something that will read in the 5 - 100 ohms range. Put the negative lead on the power pin of the solenoid you want to test (for the shift solenoids, that's pin 5) and the positive lead on the ground of the solenoid you are testing. The reading you get is the resistance of that solenoid.

One note, because the connector space is small, you may need to use a small clip or other fixture to hold the negative lead on the power pin. It makes it easier to do the test. Here are the values you should be getting for the five solenoids:

Shift Solenoids (SS1, SS2, SS3) = 12 - 25 ohms
EPC Solenoid = 3.2 - 5.5 ohms
MCCC (TCC) Solenoid = 0.98 - 1.6 ohms

To check the ground (for shorts), touch the positive lead of the multimeter to the case or engine, and the negative to the power pin of the solenoid you're testing.

To perform a functional test, you need a 12V DC source, like the battery. It is critical that you not get polarity reversed, or you can ruin the diode in the solenoid, then you will have to replace it. Connect the +12 DC voltage source to the POWER pin of the solenoid you are testing. Then, preferably using a mechanic's stethescope placed on the outside cover of the valve body, momentarily connect the ground pin of the solenloid you are testing to a chassis ground. Listen for a click. That is the solenoid actuating.

That all said, getting a manual is the best way to have all of this information. What I said above may not apply in your case, so you're on your own in that respect. The manual will have the correct pinouts and values for your transmission.
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