 Brake rotor removal
Try using a couple of bolts in the threaded holes. Here is a tip I got elsewhere:
2nd paragraph contains instructions:
I just wanted to add a little advice to this area. I spent 3 hours trying to remove a single rusted on rotor on my 2000 exp. Everyone says use a bigger hammer... well I did. A 3 lb hammer, 5 lb hammer and a 10 pound sledge. I also tried a can of deep creep and wd40. I also tried... heat and impact tools. Then I tried 30 minutes of searching on the internet. Finnally, I found the correct advice somewhere (I cannot find it again) so I wanted to pass the information on to the rest of you because those three hours were so #$%^&*. This is a very neat trick.
After removing the caliper and the caliper bracket you have 2 nice holes to work with to help you remove the rotor. Go buy a few 1/2 inch bolts at least 4 in long with nuts. Slide the bolt through the caliper bracket hole from the inside of the truck towards the rotor. As you slide in the bolt, place a nut on the bolt between the caliper bracket and the rotor. Hold the nut while tightening the bolt. The end of the bolt will push against the rotor and the the nut will push against the caliper bracket. Tighten the bolt as much as you can.. I mean really tight. Put on the second bolt in the other hole. After getting them both as tight as possible hit the rotor with a hammer. See if it moves at at all. Try tightening the bolts again. Hit it again. If it doesn't come off yet. Losen the bolts, turn the rotor 1/2 way try it again. On the first rotor it only took tighten the bolts once. On the second rotor it took 2 rotations of the rotor. 3 hours of pounding on the first rotor then 5 minutes with the bolt and the rotor popped off. On the second rotor it only took about 10 minutes to get it off.
Hit it while you are tightening the bolts. Use a bit of anti-seize on the new ones to prevent this problem in the future.
Last edited by Friendlyeagle; 02-24-2006 at 08:44 PM.
Reason: more info to add
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