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Electrical & Lighting A car's electrical can be a complicated system to navigate. Whether you are just replacing a headlight or you are doing some custom wiring for a modification project, post your comments/questions in this forum to let our community help you through your projects.

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Old 08-28-2008, 06:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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i had a car that did that in summer time,it ended up being that the fuel lines were too close to hot engine compartments,the heat from lets say the manifold would vaporize the fuel before it reached the carburator,i re-routed the fuel lines and insulated some.it fixed the problem.
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Old 09-02-2008, 03:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi guys,

Thanks for the knowledge. I replaced the wires, stator, cap and have not had it shut off. Image #2 (module) has been replaced twice. Different brand incase the other one was a bad manuf. model.

It has three fuel pumps. Low pressure in tanks (2) and another under the drivers door (high pressure). All three are new as well.

If this shows again, I will have an entire new distributor put in. Seems to be running fine but need another 100 degree day to test it with.

Running off the rear tank seems to have some issue that leads me to think the gas is bad. I am running it to empty and will refill. It has been in there fo 6+ months. So believe that will clear up as it runs like a champ on the front tank and new gas.

I will post again if it dies. I do have a book under the seat now so I can get some reading done if I am roadside again! Thanks for all the expertise.
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Old 04-26-2009, 12:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i'm not sure if there's another thread for this, but i searched and didn't see one.

my 1986 f150 showed some choking and fuel injection issues in january. we replaced the fuel filter and performed a general tune-up and it was better for a while. then in february i had to replace the main fuel pump and a secondary one.

the day i picked up, i complained to the mechanic that it seemed to be running loud and a bit poorly. he thought i was being paranoid and just needed to replace the muffler. this is true (rust), so i conceded paranoia as a possibility.

but i took it in this weekend as i need to take a trip and it still seemed to run roughly. we replaced battery cables and another lube/oil/filter. it seemed better until later that afternoon when it began to stall. and this was NOT like someone had reached over my shoulder. this was a violent choking stall that only got worse when i pressed the gas pedal. it would only run for about a minute at a time.

it had been parked for some time when this problem started, but i had parked it after a long drive and it was in the sun, so it was still pretty hot. today it cranked and ran for about five minutes with no stall, but i was afraid to get too far from the house so i didn't get it hot.

i'm really frustrated and this trip is related to a family medical issue so i cannot cancel it. i've put $700 into this problem and i'm back at square one! please help. thank you.

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Old 04-26-2009, 04:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.
Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.
The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.

Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.
Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.

Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.

SO here you go...
How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway
Howto Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more
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