HELP! 1990 Ford Probe-starts & runs fine when cold, but wont start when engine is hot

Sorcar77 · 08-06-2009, 10:15 PM

I have a 1990 Ford Probe with a 4 cylinder, non-turbo engine with 160,000 miles.. About 1 year ago, I did a complete tune-up (spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, timing belt & pulleys, gas & air filter). About 3 months ago, it was having a starting problem; it would click 3 or 4 times before starting. I replaced the starter and both battery cables and that problem was resolved

It starts with no problem and runs and drives normally and up to proper temperature. However, once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, it will run fine as long as it is on, but if the car is turned off, it will not start until it has cooled for several hours.

I tested the engine with an inductive timing light and there is no spark at the plug wires or on the coil to distributor plug wire. I have a Haynes manual, but the coils in the book (3 versions) do not match the coil in the car, so the testing procedures are useless. The coil in the car is Autozone part number C874. The book also fails to give any information on the ignition module, so I am unable to test it. Also, even if I did have the testing info, by the time I remove the part for testing; it will probably be cool enough to test as being good.

I would appreciate any help or advice as, at this point, I am considering replacing the distributor cap, rotor, ignition module & coil, basically a shotgun approach. I would rather spend the $200 for parts than the $400 to 500 dollars my mechanic always seems to charge. Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to include all the relevant information. I am also willing to give my phone number & Email to anyone who wants to help, but I don’t want to violate any forum rules. Thank you for your time.

jebus · 09-15-2009, 06:18 AM

hey man i wish i could help but im in a bind as well. i have a 99 ford escort and it does the same thing. just wondering does your cooling fan come on when the car wont start?

BroncoJoe19 · 09-16-2009, 04:33 AM

sorcar,
I have no experience with probes, but I have read here that many have issues with their distributors.
It sounds like electrical, and on the older fords, once teh pick up coil inside the distributor got hot it would fail, and give no spark.

blue beast · 09-16-2009, 08:24 AM

Cryodiagnostics! Take a can of keyboard duster with you and when it fails to start from the heat, Take the cap and rotor out and hold the duster upside down and spray in there for 5-10 seconds, put it back together and try it. If it starts that is the problem if not move on to another component. (make sure you wear gloves and goggles and don't spray yourself!!) Radio shack sells a spray for this but it is $9.00 for a 4or5 oz can and then they sell keyboard duster like 12oz for $9.00 the only difference is the diagnostic spray has a tube to pick up the liquid freon!! My buddy drove his suzuki with a heat failure igniton module and he just kept spraying it down since he didn't have the cash to replace it, for a few months!

Madkaw · 09-22-2009, 04:58 PM

Blue beast has a valid diagnostic tool for you. Just avoid keeping your face in the area you are spraying when it is hot, dust off is liquid refrigerant (freon) and becomes a noxious gas when burned or heated. Also, make sure the power is off before testing!

blue beast · 09-22-2009, 06:00 PM

You know what I don't get about the laws about venting ac refrigerant to the atmosphere but you can buy all the cans of keyboard duster you want and spray it till your heart is content!! It is the same thing!! Tetraflouroethane can anyone explain that?

Madkaw · 09-24-2009, 05:32 AM

Tetraflouroethane is not used as a refrigerant. Chlorodiflouromethane and Dichlorodiflouroethane are two refrigerants. Tetra... is only a flourine based gas where Dichloro and Chloro are chlorine based gases having and ODP rating (ozone depletion ratio) Tomorrows lesson we will discuss azeotropes, bianary and tieranary blends as well a oils used and their hygroscopic levels!