surging probe problem

[zoorider11]

oh i have a 1993 pgt and i have a sursing problem. it idles a LIttle low but the surging is the worst part. it surges worse a smy rpms go up
i changer the maf, tps plugs and wires oil and filter which had nothing to do with it but was do to be done n e way cna n e 1 help me pleeeeeeease this is my only transportation and i am lost trying to chase this problem

[sbullet]

You might want to try getting the Malfunction (MALF) code from the CEL (Check Engine Light). I have been having a hell of a time with mine surging and stalling , kicking , bucking, up and down idle. Here is a quote from something I found on the internet. I think I might have found my problem to be the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT):

"How do I pull my OBD (1993-1995) MALF codes?
Diagnostic Port Pinout

The codes are blinked out by the Check Engine Light (CEL) on the instrument cluster. Remove the key from the ignition, pop the hood, find the tniy black box labeled "DIAGNOSTIC" near the stock battery tray location at the driver's side fender. Pop open the lid to the box to find the following pinout in the image to the right. Connect a short jumper wire between the pins STI and GND. Now run as fast as you can and take cover. Just kidding. So now, get comfy in the driver's seat with a pencil & paper, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position, but don't start the engine. The CEL will begin pulsing any stored malfunction (MALF) codes on the CEL light. The long pulses represent the tens column digit, the shorter pulses represent the ones column digit. Take the count of each, put them side-by-side and you'll end up with a two-dgit code which, if all goes according to plan, should be listed in the table below:

The codes are listed at this address:

Probe Parts Classic

I did mine and all it came up with is the single digit code # 09

This describes what my car is doing:

"A faulty electrical connection, such as at the sensor wiring contact, will act like an "infinite resistance" as the electrical loop is not complete--this will make the ECU think the coolant is as cold as the lowest it is programmed to read, which is -70 degrees C. A broken sensor will do this as well. The first time I had a problem with the CTS, the dealer put the Tech 1 tool on the car and instantly saw that the CTS was reading -70 degrees---> problem found immediately!! Too bad we do not yet have the home laptop program to interface with the ALDL or you could do this simple diagnosis at home or even on the road!!"

[sbullet]

I could not find any stores around here that I can get the ECT Sensor from. I know of a guy who has a junkyard and he sells parts off of the junk cars. He has the engine out of a junked 1997 Ford Probe GT. He would not sell me the ECT but he did lend it to me for a couple of weeks. I put it on my engine and checked the diagnostics and it still showed the ECT as the problem but the car has settled down, idled perfectly and I can drive anywhere at anytime at any speed I want. I disconnected the positive post of the battery for over a half hour and then reconnected it. Took the car for a ride and then did the diagnostics again. This time there was no code for the ECT. Instead, I ended up with 5 codes. I managed to get that down to 2 codes. The car is still driveable but misfires badly. Took the distributer cap off and looked for any cracks and there is a hairline crack in it. Getting a new one tomorrow. If you are having surging problems, the first thing I would look at is the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor).