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Go Back   Ford Forums > Ford Tech Support > Engine & Drivetrain

Engine & Drivetrain Engines and Drivetrains can be a major problem for a lot of vehicles. If you are having engine or drivetrain problems, you can post your questions/concerns about the issue. Furthermore, if you are in the process of doing an engine rebuild, post your progress with pictures.

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Old 04-29-2008, 07:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 92 LX 5.0 AOD to T-5 swap questions. I NEED HELP!

Recently I purchased a 1992 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible and the transmission went out this past week. I've only owned the car since 4-4-08 and I've NEVER owned a domestic, much less a V-8! I LOVE MY MUSTANG, but I'm not partial to the AOD that's currently bolted in place. So I did a little research and figured out I wanted to do the T-5 swap.

So far I've bought:
-used shifter and bezel
-NEW flywheel
-NEW clutch kit with pressure plate/clutch disc/and release bearing/pilot bushing/bearing and alignment tool.
-used clutch fork
-used clutch cable
-aluminum quadrant

What I NEED:
-manual trans pedal assembly

...and I'm not sure what else I'm going to need..?? I'm doing the swap AS I TYPE and at the current moment I have my driveshaft removed and half of my exhaust off the car. My stock "H" pipe is giving me problems and the bolts at the header WILL NOT BUDGE! What can I do to get my "H" pipe off?... I'm thinking of hacksawing it just behind the front cats... Can I still drive it to a muffler shop after doing the swap like that?

My main question is... Do I have all the parts covered?... How am I supposed to get the old rusted bolts on my header to budge or come off?... And does ANYONE have a manual pedal assembly they want to get rid of??..

Any help would be MUCH appreciated since I'm NEW to the mustang scene.

Thanks for your help and input!

Todd
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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To get those bolts off your gonna need some heat to break of the rusted cancerous flakes off to expose the bolt to use the correct socket size and get a big ole breaka bah(bar) and give that sucker a good shove. If it isn't as rusted as my imagination conjured up the get a metal brush and shave all that rusted shit off. It's very important to use the exact sized socket for the job, you don't want the bolt to be loose in a size bigger socket and slide off when you putting your muscle into it.

I would replace all the bolts.

Clean up the engine/bay and under carriage for the hell of it man.

If your gonna do it do it right.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I just cut off the "H" pipe right behind the front cats and now I have access to the transmission space to remove the AOD. I just realized that I don't have a trans block plate. Do I need this??
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The "shim" between the engine and transmission? Yes you do need that.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My transmission that I recently bought is a 93 Cobra Borg Warner T-5 and upon purchasing it... I noticed the throwout bearing retainer shaft sleeve was broken, so I ordered a new one (steel) part num SUM-700103 from summitracing.com and it came in the mail yesterday afternoon.

Now...I have yet another question for you guys.

The bearing retainer came with some literature that says:

*CAUTION*---"It is critical that the bearing preload be set correctly or the transmisssion will destroy itself!" What exactly is bearing preload??... And how do I properly install the new bearing retainer?? I looked in my haynes manual and don't see anything about changing a bearing retainer OR bearing preload.

I'm stumped!
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Upon taking my steering column out to get to my automatic pedal assembly. I noticed a cable running from my old automatic shifter to my steering column. What is this cable for and what do I do with it now?... It clicks when the car is put into park.. I'm getting more and more confused about this swap and I'm starting to think I'm in over my head!

HELP!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-02-2008, 02:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That is probably for the shift interlock, keeping you from turning the key or shifting out of park until you hold the brake.
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Old 05-03-2008, 11:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well... I figured out what that little cable is.. It's my neutral safety switch. And I've got all the parts lined up for the T-5 to go back in.... The ONLY question I still have is..

What's bearing preload?... (see my question above)
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Old 05-04-2008, 07:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddstang LX View Post
Well... I figured out what that little cable is.. It's my neutral safety switch. (see my question above)
Almost ALWAYS the nuetrual safety switch is on the side of the transmission, I think you're barking up the wrong tree.

Is the pre-load you're talking about for how far the throw-out bearing distance to the pressure plate fingers?
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89 Firebird L03
95 F150 XL

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Old 05-07-2008, 10:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok... I got a few things figured out... Now I have my manual pedal assembly in place and I think it will crank once I get my T-5 in place. I'm trying to get my driveshaft back together and I should have the trans in by tonight sometime! I'll post some pics when I do! Thanks for the help guys!!

Here's a pic of the manual pedal assembly in place...
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...d/DSC01549.jpg
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