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Engine & Drivetrain Engines and Drivetrains can be a major problem for a lot of vehicles. If you are having engine or drivetrain problems, you can post your questions/concerns about the issue. Furthermore, if you are in the process of doing an engine rebuild, post your progress with pictures.

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Old 07-18-2008, 08:26 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Hey, you guys. I think I've stumbled into a place where my misery can be shared. That clutch/gear shift problem has hit me. Happened today, exactly as Scrungee described. I have driven my 1993 Escort Wagon over 250,00 miles. Great car. I thought enough of it that about four months ago when my clutch went out I had it replaced. Today, with the clutch pedal all way in, I couldn't shift gears. It will start in neutral, shift through the gears "going up" but forget down shifting, or getting it out of gear. If I have to stop, I must kill the engine while it is in gear, then start over. So, basically, it will be inoperable until I get it fixed. In researching this, and with all that has been discussed, it appears that this may cost some money and frustration with no real assurance that it can be successfully dealt with. If any one has any new information they can pass on, I would appreciate the help. I've looked this over the best I can, and can see that to go through this bleeding process would take someone who knows what they're doing, and even then it would be a real bear because of access, etc. HELP and thanks!

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Old 07-21-2008, 11:21 AM   #22 (permalink)
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hey scrunchee?

There could be a possibility that the transmission gearbox is empty? Or maybe the problem is with the transmission altogether? Just a thought. I know I responded rather late but I was discussing this thread to my boyfriend. He was having problems with his Ranger. In his case it was the gearbox........not the transmission.


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Old 09-09-2008, 07:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Hey guys, my problem is along these lines in this thread, but I need to clear up a few things...
1) My kid has a 1993 escort with the 1.9 litre engine and with a 5 speed.
He is having to double pump the clutch to put into gear. With the pedal pushed in, the clutch does not fully disengage. Shifting into reverse is a bear...

I have bled the system and have gone through two big cans of brake fluid bleeding the system.

The clutch itself (Pressure plate, disc, flywheel) does not slip. If I had to start replacing cylinders.. how would I know which one to replace first , i.e. master or slave?

I could find a diagnostic in the chilton manual on cd to figure out if either the master or slave cylinder has failed.

Please let me know.

Thanks,
Scott
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Old 09-09-2008, 07:17 PM   #24 (permalink)
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usually the cylinders will leak hen bad, so check for leaks
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:26 AM   #25 (permalink)
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On an older (1993) car, I think I would just replace both master and slave. Autozone online says each are about $50.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:28 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrunchee View Post
I got a call from the shop today. They told me the car was ready to be picked up. They had again replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate and indicated they found no mechanican reason for my problems. They even remarked how everything appeared to still be new (duh).
That was the dead give away that it was a master/slave problem and not the actual clutch itself. Poor diagnostics by that mechanic !
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:04 AM   #27 (permalink)
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If your car has a plastic clutch line it needs to be replaced. Over time these lines will heat up and stretch and cause the symptoms you have.

All clutch hydrolics should be replaced in pairs, they both wear at the same time.
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Old 09-10-2008, 05:59 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Good advice Mark V !
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