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Go Back   Ford Forums > Ford Tech Support > Engine & Drivetrain

Engine & Drivetrain Engines and Drivetrains can be a major problem for a lot of vehicles. If you are having engine or drivetrain problems, you can post your questions/concerns about the issue. Furthermore, if you are in the process of doing an engine rebuild, post your progress with pictures.

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Old 04-30-2008, 09:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Angry Clutch Failure? Twice??

I bought my 2005 Focus ZX4 ST last summer with 34,500 miles on it. In October I was driving to work one day when the clutch went away without warning. That is, with the engine running and the clutch pedal depressed fully, I could not get the transmission into any gear. However, with the engine turned off the shifter would find any gear easily and without noise. If I put the car in gear with the engine off and turned the ignition, the car would lurch forward. So that told me the clutch was fully engaged and was not disengaging with pedal depression. My initial thought was that the slave cylinder dumped a seal. I took the car to my local repair shop and the mechanic felt the problem was the slave cylinder as well. After replacing the slave cylinder the problem persisted. The mechanic then changed the master cylinder, but the problem persisted. Finally, I instructed the mechanic to replace the entire clutch assembly if he was going to pull the transmission in any event. That solved the problem...temporarily.
Late last week (5 months and 11,000 miles later), I'm driving home from work and stop for gas...when I get back in the car to leave the gas station, NO CLUTCH. This is the same exact problem as back in October. I took it back to the original shop as it should be covered under their warranty. However, after replacing the master cylinder again, the problem persists. It's not as bad this time...if you put the car in first gear and start the engine the car lurches forward but then stops and will run with the pedal depressed. However, when moving forward gear changes are brutal and may as well be without the clutch at all. The car has been at the shop for 4 days this time without success. The mechanic says he has posted on every forum he can think of without any answers. Ford mechanics are not very helpful.
I was told by a transmission shop manager that we should use only OEM Ford parts as this is a problem he has experienced before and solved by using OEM Ford clutch parts.
Anyone out there seen anything similar? Suggestions? Remember, 11,000 miles ago the entire clutch system was replaced so all the parts are new. Could it be a blockage in a hydraulic line? Actuator cable length?
I'm at my wit's end. I really like this car overall, but I can't afford a new clutch every year.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I just talked to the mechanic. They are using OEM Ford parts and that has not solved the problem. Repeated bleeding of the system has not solved the problem.
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Old 05-05-2008, 06:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Does your transmission use an internal slave cylinder or are you lucky enough to have one mounted on the bellhousing?

Dorman does sell clutch lines for several models that are prone to leaking or cracks, and I'd wonder if thats the problem you're having. Do you loose fluid?

It could be the rod between the clutch pedal and the master cylinder. It may be bent or misaligned.
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Update

I got a call from the shop today. They told me the car was ready to be picked up. They had again replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate and indicated they found no mechanican reason for my problems. They even remarked how everything appeared to still be new (duh).
Anyway, I went to pick up the car and when the mechanic tried to put it in gear to drive it to me in the parking lot...guess what?

The shop owner told me he and the mechanic had driven the car around all afternoon with no problem after finishing the job. Now it's doing the same thing with all new parts. The system has been bled and re-bled (reverse bleeding).

We're stumped.
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Having the same problem on our focus. New clutch and slave cylinder last week and every now and then clutch travels to floor and and no gears (engine usually stalls). Waiting to take car back to garage as another mechanic has told me that the system needs to be back bled to eliminate any air present. But as you say Scrunchee yours was reverse bled so what next??? Thinking of bleeding system myself. Can anyone here describe how to reverse bleed and best tools to use. When you DIY you know its done right (Hopefully).
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Haynes Manual indicates professional Ford mechanics "reverse bleed" but that it is not necessary. The tool to do this is about $100. Consists of a pressurized canister of fluid you attach to the bleeder nipple...which forces the fluid into the system "backwards" and forces any bubbles up to the master cylinder reservoir.

As a point of clarification, my clutch pedal has always felt normal....the clutch just won't disengage.

My mechanic is contacting Ford today to see if they can give a hint. I will update this thread when I have some kind of resolution.

Last edited by Scrunchee; 05-06-2008 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Question Sounds like crap to me...

OK...I talked to my mechanic last night on the way home from work. He told me that a technician at Ford gave him a laundry list of things to do to ensure proper clutch operation. He had already done all of them but ONE. The tech told him to "power bleed" the clutch system with the engine warm as that would ensure any bubbles in the system are eliminated.
Now how that makes any difference is beyond me, but with all new components and still no functioning clutch any advice is good advice.
So, the mechanic took the car out and drove it, left it sit idling for several minutes and then drove it some more. He then pulled it into the shop and re-bled the system.
According to the mechanic, the clutch is working properly now and he's driven it several times without problem.
I told him to keep the car till I get off work this evening and to drive it all he wants to make sure the clutch continues to work properly. I haven't received a call yet today so I'm assuming all is well.
Can anybody out there shed some light on why "power bleeding" with the engine warm would have any effect at all on getting the system completely bled??? This makes absolutely no sense to me. Okay, maybe an air bubble would expand when warmed and cause more slop in the system...and maybe that's just enough to keep the clutch from disengaging...but this really sounds like auto tech wizardry.
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I've never heard of a " power bleed" but I'm gonna look in the manual.Can the mechanic elaborate what that is I'm curious.
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When hydrualic lines deteriate, they start flaking on the inside causing like a check valve action preventing fluid from returning back up the the line and therfore holding pressure on the slave cylinder when pedal is depressed, same thing goes for brake hoses to the calipers.
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Power Bleeding

Power Bleeding is what my mechanic called it...I don't know that's what a Ford Tech would call it. Basically it's reverse bleeding. You attached a pressurized container of fluid to the bleeder nipple and force fluid into the system "backwards"...that is, any bubbles would be expelled through the reservoir instead of exiting with fluid through the bleeder nipple.
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