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Engine & DrivetrainEngines and Drivetrains can be a major problem for a lot of vehicles. If you are having engine or drivetrain problems, you can post your questions/concerns about the issue. Furthermore, if you are in the process of doing an engine rebuild, post your progress with pictures.
1) Always use the Fluid Specified in the back of the Users Manual for the Vehicle. You can also look through the Ford Official TSBs for any updates on fluid usage updates.
2) DO NOT FLUSH a high mileage Transmission, just change fluid and filter. Flushing has a tendancy to break apart any sediments, and if a chunk blocks a valve body, the transmission will breakdown QUICK.
3) If you are changing the fluid for the first time (in a 60,000+ mileage Transmission) KEEP THE OLD FLUID in a bottle, until you are sure the new fluid works. If the new fluid slips, grinds, etc. You can put the old fluid back in.
Transmissions can sometimes by quite picky, follow my advise and you will be just fine. I drive like a crazy man, but my all my transmissions hold out because I know how to maintain them.
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1994 Ford Taurus LX 3.0L 156,000 miles
1998 Ford Windstar GL 3.8L 264,000 miles
2005 Toyota Prius Package 6 1.5L 158,000 miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE 3.3L 45,000 miles
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Checking yoru tranny fluid level
1.Drive unit to warm engien & tranny fluid. Trans fluid will expand after heated up - 1pint in 5quarts or something like that.
2. Transmission in Neutral or Park.
3. Pull dipstick wiep clean & reinsert dip stick is all teh way in.
4. The fluid level needs to be between the two level marks on teh dip stick. The top level mark will have a note stating "DO NOT OVER FILL BEYOND THIS POINT" or something like that. Take heed & don't do it. If you overfill you can cause a pressure build up inside teh tranny case and blow out the the trans. seals. If you accidently overfill - drive to the closest oil change station and have thme suck soem oil out or if you have a tranny drain plug drain excess out - msot trans cases do not have a drain plug but soem do.
Your logic is like saying, don't change your underwear frequently 'cause the elastic still keeps them on your waist line and your "plumbing " covered up.
Oil of all types have properites, like a degergent, etc to keep parts clean, these properties break down after time & need to be replenished w/new fluid/oil.
I like the underwear analogy.
+1 Don't be afraid to change the oil and filter, personally I stay away from power flushes. I've seen and heard problems too often, and mileage doesn't seem to be a notable factor.
Regardless of mileage or an unknown history change the filter and top off, you cant go wrong.
The rest is all old wives tails. The part about old fluid with the worn off particulates of friction material "helping" to prevent slippage is ridiculous. Trans fluid has friction modifiers in it to help clutches grip(what do you think is in that little bottle of posi additive is?), as fluid gets old that breaks down and wears out. Adding fresh fluid would if anything help the clutches grip better. If your trans slips after a flush I would suspect the flush was done wrong and or you have other problems.
You can get extra life out of a slipping trans with a bottle of posi additive, but remember thats a bandaid not a cure.
FWIW, type F has more of this additive in it then the older Dexron fluids. I'm not sure about Dexron III or newer. Type F was the old school "cheap trick" for GM trans' rather then more expensive "racing" atf.
Also it's not a problem using a quality "universal" synthetic trans fluid in any old style trans if it's a fresh rebuild.
The atf I use meets all new car and truck specs, I use it in my mid 1970's dated C6, about 30k now, without a single problem after a rebuild with a B&M complete rebuild kit.
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'67 Galaxie 500 2door, 15 years and counting.....
Be nice to your transmission to start with, drive it like you have a frontal lobe, and change fluid. Flushing I do not recommend, because of the pressure thing, and disconnecting the tubes from the tranny will lead to something breaking.
High mileage cars with neglected trannies..... I have a pump that removes fluid thru the dipstick.... remove 2 quarts at a time drive... remove 2 more and so fourth..... It is kinda like a fish tank....remove too much water the fish die... Trust me I kill fish, just ask the local sewer dept..
You pay a little now... or a lot later. Your choice.
Be nice to your transmission to start with, drive it like you have a frontal lobe, and change fluid. Flushing I do not recommend, because of the pressure thing, and disconnecting the tubes from the tranny will lead to something breaking.
High mileage cars with neglected trannies..... I have a pump that removes fluid thru the dipstick.... remove 2 quarts at a time drive... remove 2 more and so fourth..... It is kinda like a fish tank....remove too much water the fish die... Trust me I kill fish, just ask the local sewer dept..
You pay a little now... or a lot later. Your choice.
Problem with your method is your neglecting the filter and your diluting 2 quarts fresh clean fluid with 8-10 quarts old fluid the first time, then when you do it again, your removing 2 quarts that is mixed with some fresh fluid from the first time and now 20% +/- of the 2 quarts your removing is comprised of that fresh fluid from the first 2 qts you added. The next time now your draining out and throwing away 40% of fresh oil. I'm not a math whiz so I'm not going to take the time to brake it down any farther but it would take you way more then 6-8 quarts of fresh fluid (changed 2 qts at a time) before they combine to a 50/50 mix of fresh and old fluid.
Your literally throwing good money away each time. Again, not to mention the same old dirty filter is still in there.
Now, dropping the pan and changing the filter you not only get a fresh filter but your getting rid of 5-7 quarts of old dirty worn fluid instantly without a drop of fresh fluid in it, thats at least half, more often better then half, the total trans capacity, and your instantly at or better then 50% clean fluid.
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'67 Galaxie 500 2door, 15 years and counting.....
Now that I think of it you are 100% correct, it is a waste to drain 2 quarts cause the only thing is happening is that the new oil is being made dirty instantly.
Yes the pan should be dropped and the filter changed.
This is like if your car burns 2 quarts of oil every 1000 miles do you need to change your filter ever if you keep adding clean oil? Yes the filter should be changed cause it is constantly getting dirty and plugged.
This is exactly what is happening when you drain 2 quarts of transmission fluid with out changing the filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GalaxieJeff
Problem with your method is your neglecting the filter and your diluting 2 quarts fresh clean fluid with 8-10 quarts old fluid the first time, then when you do it again, your removing 2 quarts that is mixed with some fresh fluid from the first time and now 20% +/- of the 2 quarts your removing is comprised of that fresh fluid from the first 2 qts you added. The next time now your draining out and throwing away 40% of fresh oil. I'm not a math whiz so I'm not going to take the time to brake it down any farther but it would take you way more then 6-8 quarts of fresh fluid (changed 2 qts at a time) before they combine to a 50/50 mix of fresh and old fluid.
Your literally throwing good money away each time. Again, not to mention the same old dirty filter is still in there.
Now, dropping the pan and changing the filter you not only get a fresh filter but your getting rid of 5-7 quarts of old dirty worn fluid instantly without a drop of fresh fluid in it, thats at least half, more often better then half, the total trans capacity, and your instantly at or better then 50% clean fluid.
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Mark V
Look for me on the PS3 network, I am usually playing Uncharted 2 demo right now. My PS3 name is delorean6683
Hello
The government mandates a lot of equipment on cars: emission devices and control computers; safety equipment like airbags; and crash worthiness requirements. All of this is great for the motoring public, but it does add quite a bit to the price of a new car.
Because of the additional stress older engines experience, the severe service maintenance schedule may be more appropriate than the regular schedule. Watch for leaks - seals and gaskets dry out over time and do not hold the fluids as well as they used to. It is also time to make sure you have a good technician. There are some services and replacements that are scheduled after you put some clicks on the odometer, like timing belts, valve train adjustments, suspension, anti-lock brake service, air bags, etc. And unexpected repairs down the road are just par for the course.
There are special engine oils, coolants, and transmission and power steering fluids that are formulated for cars that have a higher mileage
I have a brand 'T' 4 cyl truck that i have abused terribly... at about 100000 miles I installed an old trans cooler because I started using it for serious (up to 7000 pounds) towing a bunch of cars and other stuff over a period of time.... anyway, the atf was looking brown so I had the local 'quikie' lube power flush it... then 35000 miles later flush again and again 35000 miles later. Now at 214000 plus miles later the truck still works fine. One of these days i'll drop the pan and change the filter.
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1965 ranchero,1967 'bird and some brand x's
Used Sable, dropped pan at 45,000 miles and did the filter, pan and magnet clean up, Added around 7 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF. The transmission shifted fine before except a little slow going into reverse. After, the transmission shifted fine except it is still a little slow going into reverse. Pretty sure that was the first maintenance pulled on the trans so I will change it again in 15,000 miles and then do the recommended 30,000 mile intervals. The ScanGauge II says that the AT fluid is running around 180 degrees after running on the highway for more that 15 minutes when the outside temp is over 65 degrees. Believe that is about right.
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