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Have 1994 Ford Taurus that will not start reliably. Will turn over but not getting fire out of coil. Getting just over 12 volts to both wires to coil but no fire to the distributor coil wire. Replaced coil, but still no fire at coil wire. Thinking module behind glove compartment, but would like input from those more familiar with Fords.
Have 1994 Ford Taurus that will not start reliably. Will turn over but not getting fire out of coil. Getting just over 12 volts to both wires to coil but no fire to the distributor coil wire. Replaced coil, but still no fire at coil wire. Thinking module behind glove compartment, but would like input from those more familiar with Fords.
I would check the ICM (ignition control module). It's located right next to the distributor. The ICM turns the coil on/off to to produce the high voltage spark.
Technically it is called the TFI module and is usually bolted to the side of the distributor. It could also be the part inside the distributor called the PIP sensor.
__________________ Peace, it's our only chance
1998 E150 Club Wagon, 4.6L Modular, E4OD
2007 Milan. 3.0L Duratec, Aisin 6 speed AW-F21 others I look out for
2007 Escape 2wd (the mini Pumpkin), 3.0L Duratec, CD4E
2008 Mazda3 5 door, 2.3L, 5 speed manual
Technically it is called the TFI module and is usually bolted to the side of the distributor. It could also be the part inside the distributor called the PIP sensor.
The service manual calls it ICM, so I just went with that. On this cars the TFI is part of the ICM. The Taurus is kind of strange. On the 3.0 engine the ICM is located on the distributor, on the 3.8L and 3.0 FFV, it's located on the passenger side firewall, and on the SHO, it's located in front of the passenger side strut tower, and X2 on the PIP sensor
Should he have 12 volts to both wires to the coil?
I'm thinking he should have 12 volts to the bat side. but NOT the tach side.
Am I wrong?
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BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
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Should he have 12 volts to both wires to the coil?
I'm thinking he should have 12 volts to the bat side. but NOT the tach side.
Am I wrong?
With the key on and engine off, there should be 12v on both sides. Once the engine is started, or I should say, once the engine starts turning, the PCM or the points as the case may be, starts grounding, or pulsating to ground the negative side, and then I'm not sure what you would be able to read there. Also, the coil inside RPM gauges pics up this on/off signal at the negative side of the ignition coil and averages it out to an RPM reading.
Hey Guys, this problem sound very, very familiar. HMM. Oh yeah that was me, and my three day nightmare with My 92 Taurus 3.8L. Except my condition was a No Spark, No Fuel. I Don't know exactly what he has checked and eliminated for this 94 Taurus. On mine It turned out to be a short to ground on the Safety Neutral Switch Cicuit going to ECM, causing main fusible link to open (stretch). This meant NO Power to ECM and ICRM. (Perhaps BroncoJoe recalls) Here a copy of wiring diagrams (1994 3.8l), so you can start eliminating things. Maybe this'll help....940900c152800639d2.gif
Last edited by luirom007; 04-04-2009 at 11:58 PM..
Disconnect the SPOUT line (YEL/LT GRN) coming out of the TFI (ICM). If you still don't get any spark while cranking it is definitely the TFI or the PIP.
__________________ Peace, it's our only chance
1998 E150 Club Wagon, 4.6L Modular, E4OD
2007 Milan. 3.0L Duratec, Aisin 6 speed AW-F21 others I look out for
2007 Escape 2wd (the mini Pumpkin), 3.0L Duratec, CD4E
2008 Mazda3 5 door, 2.3L, 5 speed manual
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