Engine & DrivetrainEngines and Drivetrains can be a major problem for a lot of vehicles. If you are having engine or drivetrain problems, you can post your questions/concerns about the issue. Furthermore, if you are in the process of doing an engine rebuild, post your progress with pictures.
I don't know if this has been covered since I'm brand new, but here goes. I have a '79 fairmont with a 302. When applying full throttle the engine will lag or almost die and then catch up with itself and perform fine. If the RPM's are already high (like if I'm in a low gear) then the engine performs fine. I have already replaced the diaphragm on the carb, but that didn't help. Maybe a vacuum problem? If so I hope somebody can help me out because this is my first endevour into ford motorcraft and outside of my chilton's I have no idea where to start.
tunder the accelorator pump diaphram is a red rubber valve the allows the fuel into the pump and prevents it from pushing back into the fue bowl. did you replace it too, be sure the spring in the pump not in contact with it. look into the top of the carb with the choke open and work the throtal lever, is there a squirt of gas into the venturies?
I already replaced the fuel filter, but I do need to check the fuel flow into the venturi's. It could be the entire accelerator pump, but I'll check it out, Thanks
It sounds like other your fuel pump is weak or you have trash in your fuel tank, fuel lines, or fuel filters thats what i am encountering on my truck 86 f150. Start off by changing your filters and see where that gets you its a cheap fix, but at low RPM fuel can flow but when the demand for more fuel( at full throttle) its getting congested, and witheld and ur getting more air than anything!
Assuming you have a "stock" ford 2150 carb, it is either accelerator pump or the power valve. The power valve is underneath the carb. Carb must be removed to access it.
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2007 Milan. 3.0L Duratec, Aisin 6 speed AW-F21 others I look out for
2007 Escape 2wd (the mini Pumpkin), 3.0L Duratec, CD4E
2008 Mazda3 5 door, 2.3L, 5 speed manual
I have a "87 F150 w/ a5.0 EFI. It doesn't want to idle until it warms up. It has a slight vibration from the engine at low rpm, and will hesitate before downshifting (automatic). I bought a Haynes manual and found out how to check the OBD-1. I checked and cleared it three times. Each time code 33 shows up (egr valve opening not detected). I also did the checks on the sensor and I get no reference voltage from the computer (there should be about 5v.
Should I buy an egr valve anyway? Where does the reference voltage come from?
I almost forgot. I also got a pip circuit failure once, but after I cleared the codes and did another KEOE and Engine running test, it wasn't there.
I also got:
#41 no HEGO switching detected
#46 Thermactor air not bypassed during test
#12 RPM unable to reach upper test limit
But #33 (EGR opening not detected) and #12 were consistent all three tries.
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302 acceleration lag 
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