96 ranger 4cyl 2wd P1443 help

[xmx]

Hello, new to site. I have a 96' Ford ranger, 2.3L. 4cyl. 2wd. Check engine light came up and poped P1443 on me. After fumbling around for part numbers and other forums I decided to replace all the tubes, then I tried to replace the sensor then tried the solenoid. Still have the nasty check engine light on. Any ideas? Did I miss something? I have a picture of the evap system that I replaced for anyone else that is fumbling around like I was.
What else can I do to make P1443 evap go away?
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A)=Vapor Canister ($67.49-$80) part number=CP1041

B)=Vapor Purge solenoid ($29-$34) part number=CP505 original is E4ZF-9C915-AA

C)=Canister purge valve ($19.99-$28.50) part number=CP509

Part numbers are from advanced Autoparts stores

see pic below

[Cuda_Jim]

Did you clear the code and re-scan? Sorry, but I had to ask

Only thing left, well almost....Loose gas cap or it's not sealing??

[xmx]

Originally Posted by Cuda_Jim

Did you clear the code and re-scan? Sorry, but I had to ask

Only thing left, well almost....Loose gas cap or it's not sealing??

got to ask i guess but yes I did clear the codes after everything ecept the sensor. the dude at the store told me it will clear automatically if its fixed.

I would $#!1 a brick if its just the gas cap. Is there a good way to see if the cap is sealing? Or just inspect/replace it?

I just checked it. It seems I have gotten into the habbit of not clicking it tight.
But it is a steady code not going off and on. Chances are I didn't loose it that much. (been on for a month) would there be a reason to replace the canister? Also IDK if it matters but my gas gauge doesn't work anymore. It stopped about 5 months ago. I guess the sending unit on the gas pump doesn't send my stuff. Getting new one soon. After this thing blows over.

[Rick_101]

Originally Posted by xmx

got to ask i guess but yes I did clear the codes after everything ecept the sensor. the dude at the store told me it will clear automatically if its fixed.

I would $#!1 a brick if its just the gas cap. Is there a good way to see if the cap is sealing? Or just inspect/replace it?

I just checked it. It seems I have gotten into the habbit of not clicking it tight.
But it is a steady code not going off and on. Chances are I didn't loose it that much. (been on for a month) would there be a reason to replace the canister? Also IDK if it matters but my gas gauge doesn't work anymore. It stopped about 5 months ago. I guess the sending unit on the gas pump doesn't send my stuff. Getting new one soon. After this thing blows over.

This may not be your problem, but the manual for my '89 Ranger states it can take 40 warm up cycles to reset the Check Engine Light. If it was the gas cap, have you driven the vehicle enough for the light to reset? Are there any driveability symptoms?

[xmx]

Originally Posted by Rick_101

This may not be your problem, but the manual for my '89 Ranger states it can take 40 warm up cycles to reset the Check Engine Light. If it was the gas cap, have you driven the vehicle enough for the light to reset? Are there any driveability symptoms?

*I reset the codes by removing the positive side of the battery terminal. I did this when I replaced the tubes, then again when I changed out the solenoid. Then it came back on with in 15 min of driving normal both times.

I then replaced the sensor and tighten the gas cap both at the same time. Drove for about 20 min, check engine light stayed on. Then before my 34 min trip to work, I reset the codes again and drove the whole way to work without seeing the check engine light. So I guess it is fixed. Ether it was the gas cap or my money goes on a faulty sensor that I last replaced.

When I get home (34 min drive back home after work) I will post final conclusion. But I think the problem is solved. Because the other 3 times resetting the codes the check engine light would pop the code within 10-15 min of drive time.
Now I can finally get my truck inspected and go on with my life.


ps: After changing the tubes and the sensor, the engine seems smoother. It responds a little different now. Not really sure how this effects the engine that much but yes I did notice a better drive after the sensor/tube replacement.

[Cuda_Jim]

Here's some reading material for ya

[xmx]

Originally Posted by Cuda_Jim

Here's some reading material for ya

Ive learned a lot of stuff on the Evap system by these manual pages. Good resource thanks a lot. I will troubleshoot this and let you know what I find.

[canuck623]

Just a little advice for anyone reading. You must reset codes after every repair. Here's the reason. The vehicle will not know it is fixed until the code reset and all the settings it was running at, fuel, timing etc. will stay the same. Clearing codes resets the fuel table and allows the engine to re-learn it's strategies again. Chances are you could have driven across the country and that light would not have gone out. Some PCM's require up to 80 key cycles before the reset.

[xmx]

Originally Posted by canuck623

Just a little advice for anyone reading. You must reset codes after every repair. Here's the reason. The vehicle will not know it is fixed until the code reset and all the settings it was running at, fuel, timing etc. will stay the same. Clearing codes resets the fuel table and allows the engine to re-learn it's strategies again. Chances are you could have driven across the country and that light would not have gone out. Some PCM's require up to 80 key cycles before the reset.

This seems to be the case. After resetting the codes, I drove to and from work (finally after the sensor replacement) and it didn't pop back. (Usually took 10-15 min to pop). So now I can get my vehicle inspected.

Thanks for you help guys. I learned a lot about this system by working on it myself.