2001 Ford Focus engine troubles

Geoaidan · 10-24-2009, 01:06 PM

We have a 2001 Ford Focus SE wagon with the DOHC Zetec Engine.

We've been having strange problems with the car.

It's running very rough, and periodically, the ABS warning light and the brake warning light will both come on for 1-2 seconds at a time. When headlights are used, the headlights will also flicker, as well as the interior lights. The car will also hesitate at around 45 mph, although it does occur at lower speeds from time to time. Both symptoms do not always happen at the same time...sometimes they happen separately.

The car shows 12 volts with engine turned off. At idle, it shows 13.8 volts to 14 volts.

We had codes pulled. Here are the codes:

P0705- Trans Range Sensor circuit malfunction

P1237- Manufacturer Control fuel/air metering

Originally, the car had been running rough. No codes. So, I seafoamed the engine. It ran much better, but soon, the Manufacturer Control fuel/air metering code came up. So, I did the seafoam a second time and tightened everything down, and made sure I had a secure connection with everything. The engine light came off.

So, great. The car was fixed. Or so I thought.

Then, the code came back, this time, with a vengeance. Now, it has the 2 codes, and is running more rough than it did before. The car still runs and drives, albeit roughly, with various lights coming on at various times. I don't know what to make of it. It's like it's making things up as it goes along.

What do you think is causing the symptoms?

Here's what I have done to it so far:
New coil
New plugs/wires (Motorcraft brand, original)
Seafoamed the engine
New K&N high flow air filter in the original airbox
New PCV valve
Cleaned EGR valve
New battery
New engine mounts

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
George

Geoaidan · 10-25-2009, 11:04 AM

Anybody? Can anybody help?

Geoaidan · 10-25-2009, 11:07 AM

I forgot to mention that I also installed new oxygen sensors. Someone said that they had this same problem, and that it was the alternator. I tested the alternator, and it has a good charge.

I'm at a loss at what to do next. Considering selling the car and not buying a Ford again.

canuck623 · 10-25-2009, 01:17 PM

Alternators can short and still work. I have seen issues like that with Windstars that were caused by the alternator. Make certain that you have a strong battery and disconnect the alternator and see if it has any effect on the way it runs. Be careful with the battery cable at the alternator. It is VERY tight and you will have to hold it while loosening the nut to avoid breaking it off. I would definitely change the trans range sensor as they are digital signal as well and if you get a shorted contact in a digital device it can cause issues also.

Geoaidan · 10-25-2009, 04:20 PM

Canuck623,

Thank you for the advice. Much appreciated.

Did some research on that. Apparently, the trans range sensor has to be aligned perfectly. So, I'll probably have the dealer replace that. How long should it take them to replace it? Just so I know I won't be ripped off in labor by the dealership.

Will try that alternator test. Thank you again, much appreciated.

George

canuck623 · 10-25-2009, 05:11 PM

Your welcome. Alldata gives a labor allowance of .6 of an hour to replace the range sensor.

Geoaidan · 10-26-2009, 09:33 AM

Awesome, thanks again. Will post results when we take the car to shop next week.

George

Geoaidan · 11-06-2009, 09:40 PM

Hello all,

Here's what happened: We took the car to the garage and had the transmission range sensor replaced. It was 136.00 or so for the part plus labor. (Thanks, Canuck623-the garage was surprised when I told them it'd take them .6 of an hour to do it, and it definitely saved us some money. Their computer was preset to charge us for 4 hours!)

Anyway, so for a week, there were no engine codes. No issues, except it ran very roughly, just like it did before I replaced the engine mount. (I'll have to check that) The mechanic said that the car needed an alternator soon. But the tests that I did at home shows it's fine.

And today, all lights came on flashing and everything. *sigh* Could there be anything else wrong causing the original codes mentioned above to appear? Like a computer problem or whatever? I'll be taking it to Advance auto tomorrow for codes to be read.

Thanks,
George

canuck623 · 11-07-2009, 07:07 AM

4 hours!!!!!! WTF???? They should be reported for overcharging. In my wildest dreams I couldn't charge that much.

Lets see what the codes are before we make any guesses.

Geoaidan · 11-07-2009, 01:16 PM

Canuck623,

I know, I know.. Not only that, I noticed some caps missing from the car. The cap covering the A/C valves, the cap covering the radiator air release valve, and some other little knicknacks are missing. Never going to take the car to that shop again.

I did the engine mount test, and wow. The engine mount has been destroyed again. I replaced the danged thing 3 months ago, and now it's broken again. *sigh* That takes care of the loud vibration situation.

As for the engine lights thing, we are going to Advance Auto in a few minutes. Will report back codes.

Thanks,
George