I was told that its located MAP sensor on my Escort zx2 is on o/s engine compartment. connected to the intake manifold by rubber tubing via small fuel trap on side of air filter. 3 wires via plug come out the bottom of unit, and go off somewhere technical.
But the Ford dealers told me that this is actually the fuel injector sensor. Can someone please tell if this is the map sensor or not.
i have a 1991 ford escort and i dont know where the fuel filter is.. anyone know?? ]]>
See here instead. ]]>
'94 LX ~238k
Ever open up the door and find that the dome light won't come on ? Do you have to play with the door jam switch to get the dome light to activate ? Have you cleaned it up only to run into the same problem again within a number of months ?
NUTSHELL: The permanent solution is to securely attach a ball of solder to the mating contact surfaces for the switch.
Tools needed:
Good 40W soldering iron.
Good quality Radioshack Silver Bearing Solder.
Phillips Head screw driver.
Good Metal File Tool
Four large Paper Clamps
Needle nosed vice grips.
Roughly 30 minutes to do all four (or two in some cases) door jam switches.
1) Use the phillips screwdriver to remove each doorjam switch.
2) Pull enough wire out to securely attach the paper clamp then disconnect wire harness from switch. WARNING: It is super important that you not allow the wire to fall back into the hole.
3) Use the metal file tool or flathead screwdriver to clean the four contact surfaces to a nice copper-colored finish. With exception to the stem, doesn't matter if you file down the plastic to get at the metal surfaces.
4) Secure your switch in the circuit open position in preparation for soldering. (vice grips)
5) Being very careful not to melt or distort the plastics, use the tinned soldering iron to heat directly adjacent to one of the four mating surfaces then apply solder. Repeat the remaining three allowing adequate time for cooling so as to avoid distorting, damaging or melting the plastics. Note that Cold solder joints will break.
6) Reinstall switches in reverse of removal.
In the end, you should have two sturdy solder balls on either side of the stem, plus the grounding pad on the base coated with solder. It may also be necessary to clean the part of the metal base that makes contact with the mounting screw. This is how the switch grounds itself for proper operation. Poor contact at the screw will also result in malfunction. ]]>
This problem first appeared about two years ago when it was really frigid out.
For awhile, thought I was breathing the exhaust fumes of those cars in front of me. But after about a week or two eventually caught on to the pattern that the strength of the smell was tied to running the blower on full.
QUESTION: What was the smell ?
ANSWER: Burning plastic.
QUESTION: What was the source of the smell ?
ANSWER: The small and large plastic wire harnesses for the blower motor.
SUPPOSITION: The motor was pulling enough amperage to burn-up the plastic wire harnesses so it must be bad right ?
ANSWER: Nope.
QUESTION: So what caused the plastic on the wire harness to burn up ?
CAUSE: The contacts on the wire harness and those on the resistor assembly were severely corroded. (rusted in fact)
The motor is in fact, good. The bearings are good and turns easily, even when heated. Replacing the motor only provided temporary relief.
RESOLUTION: To resolve the problem, the metal contacts need to be replaced. Cleaning them up will be just as temporary. Ordinarily they should not corrode in that manner. The alloy used in manufacturing them is defective. ]]>
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]]>Never worked on a fwd sideways motor trans like this.
Anyone have a step by step on how to remove trans from bottom ???. ]]>
The next day, I checked out the car, and smelled anti-freeze. We poured some coolant into the radiator and watched it pour out of a hole near the engine block. The plastic piece, that houses the thermostat, had melted. We replaced what I will call the "thermostat housing" and reconnected all of the hoses.
I tried to start the car, and it cranks; however, it makes a high pitched whining noise. We have replaced the cam sensor, and the crank shaft sensor. I know that it was more than likely unnecessary to do so. We let the car sit for a day and it almost started, then reverted to the high pitched noise while cranking.
So my question is, what could be making that noise? I've heard that it could possibly be timing... ]]>
Have there been ignition issues with this model? I have a 03 zx2 that runs great then just shuts down, length of time varies anywhere from 10 seconds to 20 minutes. Checked the fuel pump and filter both are working fine.
What makes me believe it’s in the ignition, the fuel pump and radiator fan only come on part time while trying to restart and the car only will start once these two items come on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. ]]>
I have a 93 ford escort LX hatchback and today I fixed a rear break line leak. The line was pretty badly worn and rusted so I just replaced that piece of the of the line no problem right? Well when I went to replace the brake fuel and bleed the breaks I discovered another leak. This time it was coming down from the top of the gas tank. Now the repair book I had did not show any brake lines that run on top and over the gas tank and I couldnt feel anything up there. I rechecked the lines I could see and didnt see any leaks so clearly the leak is coming from above the tank. Does anybody know if there are lines that run up there or? I most likely will have to drop the gas tank to locate the source of the leak but was wondering if anybody had any insights.
Thanks! ]]>