transmission range sensor

[eternal]

Are u sure it's in the tranny? It's probably located right on top of it. Shoot me an e-mail and i'll do my best to show u an example! Mike120a@yahoo.com

It should only take about 15-20 minutes max to do this procedure. on my 2.0 vtex engine, i needed to take off the air filter and housing(for easy access), and of course unplug the negative on the battery. I have my old sensor i will take a pic of, etc.

[tommy626]

thanks ,yeah i know its on tranny case ,it was just my mechanic telling me it was on the inside,just to say he was in there for 11 hours or somthing and charge me for it. i already ffound it i just dont have a tool that will get under the shifting rod the attatches to the top of the trs. i have a 2.5 v6 not a whole lot of room to work around in . if i try to undo the shifter there no give to it in any direction.pics would help thanks man ,

[eternal]

That's strange, i'm not sure on the V-6 model, i will try to do some research in my book and see what i can find out! But the sensor on mine (4 cyl) was just connected with 2 bolts. It then pulled up off the shifter thingy that sticks out of the tranny, and of course the wiring harness that connects to it. I will see what i can find out about it. Hopefully someone that knows the V-6 model can give more insight faster!

[tommy626]

yeah its just got 2 bolts but i was unsure about pulling upwards on the shifter thingy,to get it out of the way to get those 2 bolts off

[eternal]

yah, just take off those 2 bolts(follow the instructions in the manual) and unhook the wiring harness and pull it off. Try to clean it first! If that doesnt work it's easy to replace once u get a new one. Sorry i haven't posted earlier, I have been so busy i haven't been online much. If u need mroe help, e-mail me. mike120a@yahoo.com

[tommy626]

thanks bro,im thinking of getting a code reader first,when i get some money before i get a new sensor

[dbier63]

Take the two bolts out of it and disconnect the wire harness and there you have it.

[tommy626]

alright im f**kin out of ideas,so ill give you guys a shot at it

1st the car stalled in a snow storm i bought a new battery cause its like the 3rd time its happen so i went to A Z got a duralast .
2nd the car dies on my birthday as im about to go to a casino 2 states away im glad it happened at home. it turned out to be the starter so that gets replaced
3rd the alternater shits the bed so i replace that
4 my car wont go over the 4k line so i get it scanned at AZ its a TRS sensor ok i figure its still fine to get around town in i go to my buds house it dies there so i take everything out,and the TRS sensor was disconnected cause its clip broke on the connector so i plug that back in and it works perfectly for 15 minutes,then dies .

the other day i went bought a OBD 2 scanner and the f@!#ing thing says 0 codes
today i got to buy a battery charger and fully charged my battery and still nothing
if i get in my car everything lights up the door open signal rings ,but as soon as i turn the key i her a very low click and everything goes dead. SO i was hoping some of you would have some ideas . (posted at www.mazda626.net)

[jonmark1985]

Gosh, we need to get a few things clear here.

WHY did you buy a battery when your car stalled? Do you mean stalled in its proper form, "The engine quit running as i was driving it" or stalled in some way off foreign land way of "the starter would not turn the engine over"

When you say the car "dies" do you mean the loosely more common meaning of "stalled" (see above) or that the "starter would not turn the engine over".

When you replaced the starter did you replace the battery cables? You are always supposed to replace battery cables when you replace a starter.

When you say your alternator "shit the bed" do you mean the alternator quit charging, is it drawing the battery down when the key is off, did it lock tight and can't move, any combination of these? Again a bad battery cable would be something I would be considering at this point.

Now some really good questions...

Why did you think the code reader from Autozone would give you any good information? Cheap handheld scanners are "OK" at best to use in a pinch, but a REAL scanner with REAL runtime information would prove much more helpful information.

Why did you replace the "transmission range sensor" when your car would not rev past 4,000 rpm, that has hardly anything to do with the engine speed. Later models of Ford cars and trucks would have a rev-limiter that would only be active in park and neutral shifter positions. I doubt your Mazda is so equipped, I could be wrong, thats a good question to ask your Mazda forum.

Was your MIL lit when you bought your OBD2 scanner? If it wasn't can I have what your smoking? Unless you bought a $1000+ scanner your not gonna get to much information.

The absolute first thing i would do check your batter cables.

Then at your starter solenoid should be a large lead coming directly from the battery, a smaller lead coming from the car, and a large lead running directly to the battery. The large lead from the battery should have voltage at all times. The smaller lead will only have voltage when you turn the key in the "crank" position. The other large lead to the starter will be the same.

If the smallest lead isn't giving you any voltage when the key is in the crank position you may have a broken wire, the TRS is bad, or your ignition switch is bad. If you do have voltage I'd bet you have a bad battery cable, shot starter, or bad battery. I know you just replaced two out of three but I have got batteries that were bad when i brought them home.

[tommy626]

ok i realized i have the order of events wrong ,crap.
ok in oct13. iwas going out the car was running fine and i went to somones house when i came out i went to go start it andi didnt hear anything, but the lights and the radio and alarm worked i went to a shop nearby cause i could push it there and was told it was my starter.that gets replaced.
im not sure if you guys remember the big snowstorm we had here in new england last dec12-13 but my cars light and radio were losing power.so im guessing that i need a jump itried to charge my battery and nothing,so i went to get a new battery,and jump that one fine starts right up i haul ass to a gas station to make sure i have fuel and that wasnt the problem.as im on the unplowed highway in the blinding snow everything begins to lose power again so i step on the gas and i got enough juice just for the lights to stay on ,the radio went out and so did my wipers so i had to drive 50 on the highway looking like ace ventura with my head out the window.
from all this i figured i replaced the starter and the battery my power fades still, so i must not be getting anything out of the altinator so i replace that ,i get it back from the shop(a different shop this time).works fine then out of no were it cant get the car over the 4k line it wont shift.so i bring it to AZ have the codes read and it says p0705
TRS short circut or malfunction.so one day i go to get in my car and it will not turn over so i say im going to check the TRS and it was only halfway on so i connect it and it runs beutiful for like 10 minutes i ran the car through all the gears it shifted perfectly,then sputters and dies at a intersection.i have it towed back to my house and thats were it satyed i went got a battery charger and a code reader .0 codes came up and the battery is fully charged.