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alright im f**kin out of ideas,so ill give you guys a shot at it
1st the car stalled in a snow storm i bought a new battery cause its like the 3rd time its happen so i went to A Z got a duralast .
2nd the car dies on my birthday as im about to go to a casino 2 states away im glad it happened at home. it turned out to be the starter so that gets replaced
3rd the alternater shits the bed so i replace that
4 my car wont go over the 4k line so i get it scanned at AZ its a TRS sensor ok i figure its still fine to get around town in i go to my buds house it dies there so i take everything out,and the TRS sensor was disconnected cause its clip broke on the connector so i plug that back in and it works perfectly for 15 minutes,then dies .
the other day i went bought a OBD 2 scanner and the f@!#ing thing says 0 codes
today i got to buy a battery charger and fully charged my battery and still nothing
if i get in my car everything lights up the door open signal rings ,but as soon as i turn the key i her a very low click and everything goes dead. SO i was hoping some of you would have some ideas . (posted at www.mazda626.net)
WHY did you buy a battery when your car stalled? Do you mean stalled in its proper form, "The engine quit running as i was driving it" or stalled in some way off foreign land way of "the starter would not turn the engine over"
When you say the car "dies" do you mean the loosely more common meaning of "stalled" (see above) or that the "starter would not turn the engine over".
When you replaced the starter did you replace the battery cables? You are always supposed to replace battery cables when you replace a starter.
When you say your alternator "shit the bed" do you mean the alternator quit charging, is it drawing the battery down when the key is off, did it lock tight and can't move, any combination of these? Again a bad battery cable would be something I would be considering at this point.
Now some really good questions...
Why did you think the code reader from Autozone would give you any good information? Cheap handheld scanners are "OK" at best to use in a pinch, but a REAL scanner with REAL runtime information would prove much more helpful information.
Why did you replace the "transmission range sensor" when your car would not rev past 4,000 rpm, that has hardly anything to do with the engine speed. Later models of Ford cars and trucks would have a rev-limiter that would only be active in park and neutral shifter positions. I doubt your Mazda is so equipped, I could be wrong, thats a good question to ask your Mazda forum.
Was your MIL lit when you bought your OBD2 scanner? If it wasn't can I have what your smoking? Unless you bought a $1000+ scanner your not gonna get to much information.
The absolute first thing i would do check your batter cables.
Then at your starter solenoid should be a large lead coming directly from the battery, a smaller lead coming from the car, and a large lead running directly to the battery. The large lead from the battery should have voltage at all times. The smaller lead will only have voltage when you turn the key in the "crank" position. The other large lead to the starter will be the same.
If the smallest lead isn't giving you any voltage when the key is in the crank position you may have a broken wire, the TRS is bad, or your ignition switch is bad. If you do have voltage I'd bet you have a bad battery cable, shot starter, or bad battery. I know you just replaced two out of three but I have got batteries that were bad when i brought them home.
1. my car wouldnt start i turn the key and i would hear faint clicking noises,i pushed it to a garage and they told me i need a starter so i got one.
2.my car stalled my battery and radio were losing power so i figured my battery was dead.i got a jump nothing happened so i got a new one dropped off were i was and jumped that battery to get it charged that works so i went got gas and on the way home everything was dieing i had to stay at 50 on the highway to keep my lights on .so i figured that my alternater was junk i replaced that.it works
3.out of nowhere i cant get the car past 4k,and it wont shift into 4th gear
i went to autozone to get the code read,it came up as p0705 TRS sensor it said short circut or malfuntion ok i figured it would be good as long as i dont go over 4k
and it stalled again at my friends house i looked at the TRS sensor the clip was apart so i reconnected it and it dives beutiful for 15 minutes i went through all the gears. and stalled again somewhere else i had it towwed to my house and got my own obd reader and no codes were present.i bought a wall outlet battery charger to make sure it was anything to do with the battery.
i just went to try to start it again when i go to turn it on it soundes like the engine is about to start but never really has the power to do it,then ill try to do it again and i lose all my power
Will it start if you jump it? I just had to change the alternator on mine but, before that it was acting like the battery. Also the alt. is a pain to change on mine its down near the front right tire. Not fun at all. Put a fluke on the battery (while it's running) and if it's not charging (more than 12 volts or so) then you need a alternator.
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