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Ford Crown Victoria Though they were what most people drove in the 1950s and 1960s, full-size cars like the Ford Crown Victoria are now an anomaly. But Ford's biggest sedan still offers significant virtues, including affordable V8 performance and room for six people. Today, the Crown Victoria's passenger and cargo volumes compare favorably against fashionable SUVs.

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Old 12-06-2006, 01:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 92 vic runs great until pedal to the metal

92 crown vic (4.6) 63K og miles, runs like a champ until the gas pedal gets 3/4 the way down or more. accellerates just fine, but if you put the pedal (idle or moving) 3/4 down or more it just boggs badly and wont go. ne ideas? i should also add that there is a high pitched whine that the car now makes since this engine problem. it is a constant whine doesnt get softer or louder. also just had all the brake lines replaced as well as the gas line.
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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???????????
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Old 05-03-2007, 10:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you might want to have a TBI done to clean the throttle body, might be fuel injection problems, there's a myriad of things this could be-i'd take it to ur local shop (hopefully u KNOW them) and ask them...hope it helped!
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Old 05-09-2007, 05:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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DeletedThe message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.

Last edited by raunchero; 03-31-2008 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 09-05-2007, 02:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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try a new TPS, clean the TB, run seafoam, throw a few bottles of injector cleaner in, and clean the MAF
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Back off the throttle.

If it's an active duty P-71 then it will not flatline at 100MPH. Civilian vehicles are NOT set up to perform like an in-service p-71. It's a fact.

The computer is not allowing the engine to perform the way you want it to and changing the TPS will make the problem happen sooner in the travel.

A civilian crown vic is NOT a p-71 by any means. It's an old-farts car. If you want p-71 performance, buy a p-71.

Playing around with the throttle position sensor will create problems with the software and translate into drivability issues, but it's your car. Just remember this: Play with the bull, get the horns. It sounds like there mnight already be a problem witht he engine. Have a mechanic use a stethoscope to try and pinpoint the source of the noise.

Failing success, do your crown vic a favor and take it to the dealer for an error code printout. You could have sensor issues.

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Old 01-29-2008, 01:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Idling issues...

Sorry, I meant to name this post "Boggy acceleration"

This post of mine also comes too late for your purposes, luggnutz, but I hope this'll help anybody else who stops by.

I definitely agree with cvpi when I suggest running Sea Foam and injector cleaner. I however don't know what makes raunchero believe that diagnostic equipment would cost $50. The Crown Vic in question is a 1992, which means that it's ran by EEC-IV, which has OBD-I. I would definitely advise you to buy a OBD-I troublecode scanner for Fords if you plan on keeping any Ford OBD-I vehicles for an extended period of time and plan on working on them yourself. With OBD-II on current models and talk about OBD-III coming out into the public soon, a simple OBD-I scanner is quite inexpensive. It should only be $25-30 at most.

Troublecodes can help you troubleshoot so many things! With that scanner, you can even run cylinder balance tests, which measures how weak any of the 8 cylinders might be which can help you troubleshoot sparking issues, blowby issues, and timing issues.

Troublecode scanners aside, I would definitely take that Throttle Position Sensor off and connect a multimeter to two of the 3 wires. There's an orange wire, a green wire, and a black wire. (Come to think of it, I think the Throttle Positioning Sensor design was changed between 1991 and 1992....) I can't remember which ones to connect which leads to, but you can take the TPSensor to an AutoZone or other auto parts store and they'll be able to test it.

All the test consists of is checking the resistance between two of the wires and seeing if it lowers and raises smoothly as you turn the sensor. If the amount of resistance makes any jumps or is giving you an erratic movement then the sensor could use a replacement.
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Last edited by Marcudemus; 01-29-2008 at 01:11 AM. Reason: wrong title
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Old 07-17-2008, 10:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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If you have not fixed your problem yet, I bet it is your air flow sensor. Simple check, just disconect wires going to air flow sensor (usually located in the air duct between air filter and engine).
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