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Ford Econoline There's more to the Econoline's staying power than Ford simply sticking with a product that has been the No. 1-selling full-size van since 1980. The Econoline has received only minor changes over the years. The result is a cargo van that looks different, but is still very much the same. For many E-Series customers, that is the best news of all.

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Old 05-22-2008, 06:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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just a added note, dont take the nut off complety from lower ball joint. that way it wont drop down on floor and maybe hit your foot or damage some threads or anything else. and yes hitting it with big hammer will do it. I got a few big hammers and the really big ones have long handles. I cut the handle on one so I can get in there easier.
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've been messing with my truck for over a week now! Started out as a metal on metal grinding noise followed by, what felt to me, the tire knocking on the side of my axle. Didn't think much about it and went and changed the brakes. Took it for a short test drive, didn't get past my house and it started grinding again...thought to myself "oh great, gonna have to change out the rotor" Simple enough job you would think. Well, took the rotor off and all of these parts just start falling out! Bearings, racers, pieces of metal, metal shavings, etc...

So, I went down to my local O'reilly's and got a new rotor, inner and outer wheel bearings and a new grease seal. Started greasing everything up and putting it all together. Went to put the rotor on and the inner wheel bearing wouldn't fit all the way. Took another look at it and the inside ring from the inner wheel bearing had welded itself to the spindle. Nice! after several hours of banging and pulling i finally got it off. Went to try the rotor again and again, it still wouldn't go. Turns out the spindle was warped as well. Now, keep in mind that I drive a 1997 Ford Ranger. So I call a few parts stores, no one has a spindle that I need. I call a Ford dealership and find out that every part for a 1995-1997 Ford Ranger has been discontinued, not that I was going to buy from them anyways (they wanted $300 for a new spindle!) The closest auto salvage yard is 60 miles from where I live, but they have one for rather cheap. Long story short, I got all of my parts, all of the tools and the darn ball joint wont come off! So I took Joe's advice and tried A BIGGER HAMMER!!! Worked perfectly! Now comes the fun part of putting the new/used spindle on...wish me luck!
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks for taking the trouble to post the great info and pictures.
I have to replace upper and lower ball joints on my 98 e350 van (has 202k miles)
I think I will start bathing it in penatrating oil for a couple weeks first.

reading the factory repair manual it states:
prevent damage to balljoint seal and balljoint socket "do not use pickel fork"

it also says " strike the lower end of the front axle to loosen ball joint"

I don't understand where to hit, should I bang up on the axle just behind the wheel spindle?

is that how you guys did yours?

I found a new kind of geasable ball joint I will be looking into:
here is the link:
http://www.carquest.com/common/downl...assis25947.pdf

Thanks for your help

Last edited by syncmaster; 10-12-2009 at 06:28 AM.. Reason: added greasable ball joint link
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I found more info on the greaseable ball joints

for the e350 look at the pictures in the link for K8609t and K8608T
1998 Ford Econoline E350 1 Ton - Ball Joints and Control Arms Parts -MOOG,CONI-SEAL,USI/AUTO EXTRA- Discountautoparts.com
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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When I did my '90 Bronco, the originals didn't have grease fittings, the replacement MOOGs did. They'll probably outlast the truck considering it is already nearly 20 years old.
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:00 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Yep, I always buy MOOG when I can !
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Now I know why I was so relieved to see that the dealer had replaced all the ball joints on my van before I bought it. So glad I didn't have to fight with this repair. I've got nerve damage in both wrists/hands that doesn't take to beating on things with big hammers.

Good info! Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syncmaster View Post
Thanks for taking the trouble to post the great info and pictures.
I have to replace upper and lower ball joints on my 98 e350 van (has 202k miles)
I think I will start bathing it in penatrating oil for a couple weeks first.
Don't bother, penetrating oil will not help.

The hole is physically smaller than the outside of the ball joint. yes, the metal is stretched when you insert the ball joint. No room for oil to get in there !
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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LOL... So I guess he should start practicing swinging a hammer!? for a couple of weeks?
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:27 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJoe19 View Post
LOL... So I guess he should start practicing swinging a hammer!? for a couple of weeks?
I have seen a 12 lb, full size sledge used to removed wheela or rotors that were rusted on !
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