Towing questions

[ajpletcher]

Originally Posted by rmarriner

I came across this, it might not be in depth and doesn't hint on a 2002, but it might help you out some...

http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-focu...p-trailer.html

I wodent push my luck, tranny may hold it and motor, but think of this if you put 4 250 lbs people in that car how would it run?

[rmarriner]

Originally Posted by ajpletcher

I wodent push my luck, tranny may hold it and motor, but think of this if you put 4 250 lbs people in that car how would it run?

Ya, I personally wouldn't do it either... I figure most compact cars don't have the tow package option for a reason! LOL!

[rmarriner]

Well, I bought a trailer!

It's a '97 Viking pop-up tent trailer with trailer brakes, it weights 1490lbs empty with a 240lbs hitch weight and a 2200lbs max GVWR.

A couple of other questions now, sorry!

Overdrive... My dad and I drove over 2 hours on the Freeway to pick up my trailer and towed it back that same amount. I started out with the overdrive off because I figured you probably should. My dad told me that he personally would leave it on unless it started going in and out and trying to find the right gear. With overdrive, I was able to tow it 100 miles, on flat land on just about 1/4 of a tank! But with OD off the engine is about 1000rpm higher and I can almost see my fuel gauge moving.. LOL!!

Because of our bickering I called the Ford Dealer that I bought the Escape from today and the technician I talked to said what my dad did! He said he would leave the Overdrive on too! I was kind of shocked by this. I said to the dealer, "Then, should I leave the overdrive on when I am hauling on flat land and turn it off in the mountains?". He then said, no, that he would only turn it off, even in the mountains, when going downgrade so that the engine would help with slowing everything down... He added that the O/D drive is not a free floating gear like they used to be and that they are a lot more resilient today. He also added that the computer would control the best gear to be in, so even if I had it in O/D and I started a incline the computer would automatically kick off the O/D.

Does this sound right to you? He also didn't know at what temp my transmission should be when towing. (I have yet to get my Scan Guage though, so it does me no good right now anyway...) He told me I should call the Ford Customer Assistance line and that they I could talk to someone that is specialized in towing.

Anyhow... I also got quotes to install the trailer brake controller into the Escape and since Ford didn't put the "blue" brake wire into the trailer wiring harness, apparently they have to string cable from the engine compartment clear to the hitch. The cheapest I've found somebody willing to do this is $357+tax, but that includes the controller... But that seems pretty expensive to me... what do you think?

Thanks guys!

[ajpletcher]

First for your overdrive. Pulling with overdrive ON, on FLAT ground is fine, with minor hills. Go ahead use it it wont hurt. If you hit hill not mountain, well those too, but just hills that the motor is gonna have to work a little, turn the sucker off, you'll burn something up. (experience talking) So just always be thinking easy to move od is good, have to work to move od off.

As for the trailer your way good at pulling that, shoudent have a problem at all.

Ok well that Blue wire is the brake wire for the trailer. So let me put this into comparison. Electronic brake controller, at store $100.00, 20 ft of blue wire $7.99 (high)

Profit of bussiness for something that can easily be done your self $125.00.

It pretty easy to install one of those brake controllers. there is a harness you can get that connect from the brake controller to the harness under the dash. then you run a wire thru the firewall to the back and plug it into the wiring connector. whallah brakes on trailer.

if you want to know more or let us know

[rmarriner]

Originally Posted by ajpletcher

It pretty easy to install one of those brake controllers. there is a harness you can get that connect from the brake controller to the harness under the dash. then you run a wire thru the firewall to the back and plug it into the wiring connector. whallah brakes on trailer.

Except I cannot find one of those Harness' for the Escape. I have been looking at e-trailer.com, they even have tutorial videos on how to install the controllers in certain vehicles. When I look for an Escape harness to simply plug in I can't find one. I even called a local RV store and they said there is not adapter either.

So I'd have to do it the old fashioned way I guess... Tap into the brake switch under the dash, run power manually for it and then run the blue brake wire back to my hitch. I came across this site;

Electric Trailer Brake Controller Installation

If you scroll down a little it gives a diagram of how to do it. They also sell a kit;

Brake Controller 7 & 4 Way Installation Kit - 10 Gauge ETBC7 : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

Only thing is, while I probably could it, I am worried that I won't have the right tools, or connectors, etc... I also REALLY worry about drilling through the firewall... I even had one guy from an RV dealer tell me that you have to be really careful when tapping into the brake line because it "could" set off some of the airbags... Yikes! I bet that's expensive to fix...

Originally Posted by ajpletcher

Electronic brake controller, at store $100.00, 20 ft of blue wire $7.99 (high)Profit of bussiness for something that can easily be done your self $125.00.

I actually would be willing to pay $250 (if you add up the numbers above) to have it installed "professionally". I think $100 would be fair labor charge. I just can't find anybody to do it for that price. I just would absolutely hate to really screw something up by doing it myself.

[ajpletcher]

do you already have a seven way connector installed on the rear of the escape

[rmarriner]

No, I do not. Even though it comes with the factory tow package, Ford only puts a 4 pin on Escapes, and leaves the blue brake wire out of the harness completely. The kit that I am thinking of buying in my previous post gives me a 7 pin and a 4 pin. Basically, I can plug my existing four plug into the 7 pin adapter and just wire my brakes, so I don't have to do any splicing on the factory wiring, atleast at the hitch. It looks pretty slick...

I can't believe Ford did that though??? Why, if you can order a factory tow package, would they leave out trailer brake wiring??? That is idiotic in my eyes... considering in California you have to have trailer brakes for anything over 1500lbs... With the tow package you can haul 3500lbs... That don't make sense! (can you gather I am kind of frustrated at Ford right now... )

[ajpletcher]

Yes i do gather that. However, with this new information i would consider taking it in because the 7 way adds three more wires. A Brake wire, A power wire for the trailer, and back-up light wires. With some day you might use, or you might have back up on your trailer now. So to save a headache i would recommend having a professional do it. Your ground might also have to be upgraded to support enough grounding juice.

See before i thought that ford had put a 7way on and all you needed was a brake wire, now theres more, with additional wiring and splicing ... don't take chances leave the liability on someone else.

[rmarriner]

Originally Posted by ajpletcher

don't take chances leave the liability on someone else.

Exactly!

I guess I'll have to break down and dip into my puny savings acct and spend the $400 to get it done right. That's about what 2 or 3 camping trips would cost... so we'll have to wait until next year to use this crazy trailer! HAHAHA LOL!

Thanks so much for your help!

[ajpletcher]

Well you could do it yourself with the proper wiring diagrams etc. But if you get into an accident because of it .... well you'll wont have to worry about the trips for the next 10 years... JK ... Good Luck