04 Escape Idling Problem

grayescape · 04-13-2009, 10:45 PM

I have a 2004 Escape with the 3.0 V6. The problem first started when I was driving on the freeway at about 70mph. It stumbled like a car that is running out of fuel does. It did this a few times and then I got off of the freeway since I was almost home. Once I got to the first stop sign it completely stalled out. I restarted and did this process sign to sign the rest of the way home. It will now start but will not idle on its own for more than a few moments. I can hold my foot on the gas and it will maintain. I have found in searches that the IAC Valve seems to be the most common fix, so I replaced it with no avail. I am now at a stand still. Any ideas. I am trying not to spend a lot of money in fixing this problem. It is not throwing any idiot lights on the dash. Thanks,

Tim

BroncoJoe19 · 04-14-2009, 04:13 AM

The next most common idle problem is caused by a vacuum leak.

Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.