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Ford Escape The Ford Escape has been thoroughly updated, reinforcing the character and appeal that have made it America's perennial best-selling small sport-utility vehicle. The improvements nearly cover the spectrum, and inject a new level of refinement. We'd call the Escape a little truck among small SUVs. Its new styling deliberately invokes Ford's larger, truck-based SUVs.

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Old 05-02-2009, 12:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default RPM's Racing

I have a 2001 Escape V6 XLT that when I'm driving the rpm's will race up to 3000 and basically drive itself.Now here is the funny part.....the temp gauge will bottom out and the air conditioner will blow hot air......Then when you place it in park it revs up to 4000 rpm and if I press on the gas pedal it'll drop but then go right back up 4000 and idle.After the car sits for a while it'll start and run fine but the problem comes back......HELP GUYS!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I believe it's some type of leak on the intake system, seen this in a post on another forum, same thing happened with the rpms racing, they replaced the pcv valve, pcv valve hosing, intake manifold gaskets - lower and upper, and found the intake air control valve sticking. Poor guy got raped with over $1,200 in repairs.
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Old 05-02-2009, 07:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Three most likely culprits, in no particular order.
vacuum leak
Dirty, sticky, or otherwise malfunctioning IAC
or TPS

Pull diagnostic codes with a scanner to help troubleshoot. Some parts stores will do this for free as a service AutoZone is one.


Check and clean your IAC
Ford Fuel Injection » Idle Air Bypass (IAB)

Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.
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