 2002 Master Window Switch
I recently experienced problems with getting the driver’s window to raise on my 2002 Escape XLT V-6. I had a feeling the problem was the Master Window/Door Lock/Unlock Switch on the driver’s door. A new one costs $148.08 from the dealership. I found others costing much less. I eventually bought one for $28.98 plus $7.95 shipping on eBay. The only tools you will need are a thin blade screwdriver (or pocketknife), 2 paper clips bent to form a u-shape and your ignition key. This procedure is also useful to get the window up if it gets stuck and rain is imminent. Proceed as follows:
Using the screwdriver, pry up at the top of the switch panel to relieve the tension of the metal spring element holding the panel in place. Lift the panel up and forward toward the dashboard to clear the plastic tab holding in the bottom of the panel. You will see an electrical connector with a small white button that you need to depress to remove the connector from the bottom of the switch panel. Remove the connector. This connector has 11 wires of various color combinations leading to it. The 4 wires on the top row are numbered 4 through 1 sequentially (from the door toward the cabin) and the wires on the bottom row are numbered 12 through 6 sequentially (from the door toward the cabin). The wire colors given here are as shown on the diagram I used. Models and wire colors may differ. You may wish to draw a pictorial representation to aid in making the connections described below.
Perform this step with the door open and the ignition switch in the OFF position. To raise the driver’s window, use one of the paper clips to connect the female contact for wire number 4 (wht/blk) to the female contact for wire number 8 (red/lt blu). Use the other paper clip to connect the female contact for wire number 12 (blk) to the female connector for wire number 9 (red). After ensuring that the paper clips are not in contact with each other, use the ignition key to turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position when the window is fully raised. If the window raises, you have a bad switch. If not, either you have connected the paper clips incorrectly, or you have a different problem.
Troubleshooting the operation of the other windows is pretty straightforward. These windows, in addition to the Master Switch, have a switch located on the door. If the window operates with one switch and not the other, then the offending switch is the problem.
If a particular window malfunctions in the same manner with both the Master Switch and the switch on the door, consider the Lockout Switch on the Master Switch Panel.
Some things to consider if you are experiencing problems with none of the windows neither lowering nor raising are Fuse 20 (40A) in the Battery Junction Box, Fuse 11 (10A) in the Central Junction Box, and the Accessory Delay Relay in the Central Junction Box. The diagram I used to generate this procedure show that Fuse 11 also powers the Generic Electronic Module through the coil of the Accessory Delay Relay. If these go bad, the vehicle may very well not start.
I got my driver’s window to raise several times using this procedure as I accidentally lowered the window from force of habit. While this procedure worked on the Escape model listed above, I assume no responsibility for any damage that may occur by trying to follow these directions. If you want a copy (free) of the diagram I used or any other assistance/advice, post a reply to this thread with your email address and I will send it to you. As always, if you are unsure of your ability to follow these directions properly, contact a service professional to diagnose your problem. | 
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