What am I missing when replacing the clutch master and slave cylinder?

[fmag1521]

I have replaced the clutch master and clutch slave cylinder. The slave moves about half of the normal travel when the clutch pedal is engaged. I have bled the system and am getting fluid with no bubbles. What am I missing? The reason that I ask is that my other cars with hydraulic clutch linkage engage the slave through the entire travel when the pedal is pushed.

If anyone can help me on that, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Scott

[theoldwizard]

On older cars the fittings and or lines between the master and the slave can get corroded and leak air. If the master is in the middle of its stroke and the slave stops, you must have air in the systems.

[fmag1521]

Originally Posted by theoldwizard

On older cars the fittings and or lines between the master and the slave can get corroded and leak air. If the master is in the middle of its stroke and the slave stops, you must have air in the systems.

thanks theoldwizard.

How do I get this air out? Or better yet should I replace the rest of the lines?
I have already replaced the metal line coming out of the clutch master cylinder and I have replaced the hose coming from the reservoir that serves the clutch master cylinder.

Once again theoldwizard, this neophyte can not thank you enough for your help.

Scott

[theoldwizard]

If you have corroded fittings, you will never get the air out ! It will always leak back in !!

[mark v]

Do you have a plastic line between the M/C and slave cylinder? If you due this could be your problem. When these old plastics heat up and get wore out sometimes they will expand under pressure when you push the clutch in and not transfer the pressure to the slave cylinder.

[JLucero]

Originally Posted by mark v

Do you have a plastic line between the M/C and slave cylinder? If you due this could be your problem. When these old plastics heat up and get wore out sometimes they will expand under pressure when you push the clutch in and not transfer the pressure to the slave cylinder.

MarkV:
It is my car, Scott (fmag1521) is the one working on it for me. The line that comes out of the master is metal. It connects to a rubber line and then to metal line which connects to the slave. I went to Ford today and that rubber line is no longer available. Should I need one, where can I get it?

Scott and I appreciate the help in this matter.

Thanks,
Jordi

[theoldwizard]

Originally Posted by JLucero

...The line that comes out of the master is metal. It connects to a rubber line and then to metal line which connects to the slave...

Very strange ! While I can see that the rubber line might be there for vibration issues, it will also "flex" under pressure not transmitting the full force of the hydraulic pressure to the slave, which is exactly your problem !

Some hydraulic cylinders do use a special hard plastic, but if you remove metal, that is what you should re-install.

I do believe that you checked this out at the dealer, but it still smells like a patch to me !

Personally, I would remove the tubing, measure it end to end and then see if you can buy a piece of stainless tubing of similar length at your local parts store. These usually have new fitting on each end so you need to be certain that they will thread onto the master and slave cylinders.

You have to be very. VERY careful when bending the tubing or it will kink and then you can start over ! See if the store has a tubing bender kit that they will loan out.

[fmag1521]

theoldwizard and the forum:

I do thank you for your help on this issue. Regarding that rubber line, it is from the factory that way and the Ford replacement part number is 7T504. That part is now obsolete. I figured that it was put in to handle the vibration compensation.

My next strategy to remove the air is to gravity bleed this system, (keep pouring in fluid until I get a continuous stream at the bottom and/or go to Napa and see if they have that type of brake hose with the fittings on the end.

Any thoughts? The reason that I ask is that you all have been very helpful on this.

Thanks,
Scott

[mark v]

You can make a metal line if you wish and wrap it in rubber hose to isolate vibrations.

[fmag1521]

I wanted to thank everyone on this forum for pointing me in the right direction. I am still bleeding air out of the system. (I am doing this the old fashioned way and it is slooooow.) However, I am making progress. I do know in the future, that I am getting one of these "bleeder tools" (brake shop quality) i.e. Phoenix Maxpro Injector to reverse bleed the system if I ever have to do this again.

Once again, I thank you for your help in this matter.

Scott