This post covers the following problems:
1) Key won't turn the ignition or have to play with the ignition for awhile to get it to turn. (usual trick of turning steering wheel while keying didn't help)
2) Occassional problem extracting key from ignition.
3) Incessant warning beep even though the key is completely out of the ignition. (on occassion)
4) Occassionally slides out before fully returning ignition to off position.
5) Possible shifter interlock release issues on vehicles equipped with automatic transmission.
Lubricated the lock cylinder and it helped the first two issues a little but pretty much the same issues; last two even worse than before.
Ah, "worn key" I thought. So went into the sock drawer and dug-out the original "master" key to have new copies made. (note I kept a master key that was not used)
Here are the problems I had AFTER having the new keys made:
1) Key won't turn ignition... unless I flip it. Not immediately, but more than a week down the road the door and trunk cylinders started doing the same thing.
2) Key slides right out of the ignition in any position at all times. Even fell out while driving.
3) Consistent warning beep even though ignition returned to position and key fully extracted.
(vehicle runs without key in ignition)
.
.
.
.
Solution: Need new ignition right ?
Answer: No.
Several weeks later and with the receipt, I took the copies made (and original) back to the hardware store then told the clerk (different person) ONLY that the key only works when flipped. Visually I couldn't tell the difference from the original key and the copies.
He made new copies.
All problems immediately ceased. The ignition and all door locks work like they did when new.
Note that whenever you replace a lock cylinder, you get new keys.
Ignition lock cylinders are typically more sensitive to defects and key wear than door and trunk lock cylinders.
Poster replies: "yea i tried spraying wd-40 in the key cylinder..doesnt do any difference..my key still sticks in side lol"
Solid graphite and very sparingly should be used with these ignition lock cylinders. Again I stress, a little goes a long way. Use as much as you feel like for trunk and door cylinders. It's the electrical component to the ignition that makes using lubricants, of any type, potentially risky. Personally I use a ton of the stuff on my entry locks to prevent freezing during the Winters. (silicon spray lubricant on the door/trunk seals)
Aside from that, the point of the post was that it was the keys that were the actual cause of the issue. Lubricating the cylinder actually made matters worse overall and was extremely temporary for the little bit it did help.
If you do
not have an unused master key then you're probably hosed and will need a new ignition/key set. Check with your local locksmiths and ask about restoring worn keys to be sure.