could the amp wire

kingsfan45 · 10-13-2009, 03:42 PM

could the amp wire be the reason my escort gt shuts off randomly? because it is attached to the battery. or could it just be a bad fuel pump because

the gas gauge is incorrect?

Intuit · 10-15-2009, 09:09 AM

If it's shutting off "randomly" then it could be anything. Providing more detail will help narrow it down. For example, what code is being produced ? Does it only shutoff when the vehicle is warmed up, or when cool, or both ? Does it shutoff only while idle, while driving or both ? What have you tried thus far ? Why do you suspect electrical ? Does it start right back up or does it have trouble starting ? Are you flooding the engine ? (begin holding the pedal to the floor before turning key to crank, to clear the engine after two failed crank attempts) As it's cranking, does it at least try to start or is it just a dead crank ? Have you tested fuel pressure ? etc, etc, etc...

Basically we just need more detail to even begin to give some theories.

EDIT: Oh, and once you fix the issue, BE SURE TO CHANGE THE OIL in that thing. Undoubtedly there has been a lot of fuel dumped into it on these failed crank attempts.

kingsfan45 · 10-15-2009, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Intuit

If it's shutting off "randomly" then it could be anything. Providing more detail will help narrow it down. For example, what code is being produced ? Does it only shutoff when the vehicle is warmed up, or when cool, or both ? Does it shutoff only while idle, while driving or both ? What have you tried thus far ? Why do you suspect electrical ? Does it start right back up or does it have trouble starting ? Are you flooding the engine ? (begin holding the pedal to the floor before turning key to crank, to clear the engine after two failed crank attempts) As it's cranking, does it at least try to start or is it just a dead crank ? Have you tested fuel pressure ? etc, etc, etc...

Basically we just need more detail to even begin to give some theories.

EDIT: Oh, and once you fix the issue, BE SURE TO CHANGE THE OIL in that thing. Undoubtedly there has been a lot of fuel dumped into it on these failed crank attempts.

The car shuts off warm or cool. It shuts off mostly when the car is stopped and then press the gas it will shut off, it usually shakes right before shutting down. I did put a music system in it, i was just thinking if the battery cant take the amp wire, then that might be the reason for it shutting off. I've tried putting down this gas cleaner down the fuel tank, the people at kragen auto parts told me it might be sludge build up, but after that the problem continued. When it shuts off sometimes it will start right back up again, and sometimes it will take me like 5 minutes max to get it started again. I have not tested the fuel pressure, from what i hear these escort gts have an infamous fuel pump problem, that might be why the gas gauge is off. maybe a new fuel pump?

Intuit · 10-15-2009, 09:17 AM

Oh, and do *not* hold the pedal to the floor on carburetor models. With EFI models it will disable the injectors (but not the spark) to help clear the engine.

Intuit · 10-16-2009, 09:58 AM

Does it stall from a stop primarily when under load ? If you just rev the engine in neutral, does it exhibit the same tendencies ?

The basic principal on an engine is fuel, spark/timing, air. Air is unlikely. You'll want to check the basics before doing anything... that being spark plug wires, spark plug gap and appearance; while at it air filter, coolant levels & appearance. The appearance of the spark plug can give you clues as to the type of burn your engine is producing, as well as it's mechanical health. That should help reduce the liklihood of this being spark related. I've had double-silicon (insulation) spark plug wires cause bucking/hesitation under load. Insufficient output from an alternator and dying battery can also cause start and run problems. BTW, once you get this entire problem licked, be sure to change the oil. Next thing I'd check is timing. Depending on the number of miles on your vehicle, it may be nearing or past time for timing belt change. Sometimes wear allows them to slip a couple of teeth which can cause start and run/drive-ability issues.

Then I would start to look at other more complex issues. Pulling the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator should put PSI up around 40 depending on the vehicle. Pressure can then be measured with a gauge. Pluggin the vacuum line back in, pressure can again be measured throughout various engine RPM ranges; and against sudden loads.

Intuit · 10-16-2009, 10:03 AM

Oh, and temporarily undo any electrical changes in relation to amp/radio until you get the issue resolved. That's the easiest way to eliminate this from the realm of possibilities.