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Ford Escort Ford Escort ZX2 is a hot-looking compact coupe with a rakish design. Yet its handsome interior reveals a roomy back seat and surprisingly large trunk. ZX2 provides responsive handling and good road manners and its engine delivers decent power. At the same time, the ZX2 is a practical car, with plenty of room in the back seats for friends.

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Old 10-22-2009, 05:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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My first thought was vacuum leak.

To answer some questions.
The fuel pressure regualtor is different from the fuel rail pressure sensor.
I don't know if you have a fuel rail pressure sensor in your car. CHeck with autozone.com, or rockauto.com and see if they list that part for your car.

Tips for Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

And one more place that is not always obvious is that the vacuum reserve canister in older vehicles sometimes rots out and leaks, but rarely gets checked. In older vehicles it looks like a metal juice can, in newer vehicles it is made of plastic.

Here are some pictures of some vacuum lines in a 1998 3.8L windstar.
Ford Forums - BroncoJoe19's Album: 3.8L vacuum lines
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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'94 LX 1.9L SEFI ~220-230k: Guess this was roughly a year ago, but everytime I tried to place the engine under load it would dead-miss and because I was driving a stick, BUCK!

Ride'em Cow.... uh, anyway... the issue was electrical. (in my case)

Getting progressively worse, if I pressed the pedal very slightly and let the RPMs ramp up, I could avoid a miss.

Had spent a little more on spark plug wires (with double-silicon) thinking I was getting better quality. What didn't realize was that I was getting wires that had higher resistance. Once they had several thousand miles on them, resistance went above what the coil could tolerate. Under load, more air and fuel has to be burned and if the spark is insufficient, then that equals a miss. Went through about three sets of wires (in short order) before realized this. Wish I had never got rid of the original wires. But anyway bought the cheapest wires I could find and voila... no further issues with ~12k and counting.

BTW, a previous time similar had happened, this time missing at high RPM, had got it home and found two of the four wires disconnected. Ran pretty damnd good considering.
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:21 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Intuit - that seems VERY SIMILAR to what I'm experiencing. I've just changed (as I'm sure you read) the wires, plugs & coil. Once up to temp, if I very slightly give it gas I can get it up to speed, but if I try to accelerate hard - no dice! I think I may still have the original wires sitting around, so I might stick them back on.
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Old 10-28-2009, 01:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Any luck Red ?
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Sorry Intuit - I've been out of the country for the last week - I only arrived home today - last thing on my mind was tinkering... LOL ...I'll start playing around this week and see if I can find something!
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Old 12-06-2009, 02:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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OK - so after eons - I was playing with the car today, was about to change out the wires back and decided to look at the fuel pressure. So I connected a fuel pressure gauge while running the psi was at about 28-32psi. When I would put the car under load (revving the throttle) the psi would drop down into the single digits and the car would seems to bog as the psi would slowly start to climb. And I mean slowly! Shouldn't the psi stay close to the normal range even under load?

Just an fyi - I have changed the fuel filter, so I'm thinking fuel pump...?
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Old 12-06-2009, 04:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Low fuel pressure.... that's your problem.

Haynes has about 4 pages of differential troubleshooting for the fuel system including the fuel pressure regulator. I'm sure that Chilton does just as good a job.
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just to follow up and add some closure to this issue - I went to the U-Pull-It today and grabbed a Fuel Pressure Sensor and a Fuel Sending Unit for about $31.00. That solved everything! The car ran great - no more bogging, no more clogging! Was able to fly around the neighborhood with ease! Thank you all for your input and interest in my dilemna.
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Old 01-30-2010, 06:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Just curious,
what pointed you to those parts? Did you get a Haynes or Chilton's manual like I suggested?

At any rate... thanks for following up and posting the solution.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:12 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I researched the Haynes manual, tried to make sense of it, honestly didn't get all I could from it. I knew that it was either the sender or the receiver. So when I was able to get the 2 parts from the junk yard for so cheap I figured at worse I would be out $30.00. I think that I could have gotten away with the just the Fuel Pressure Sensor.
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