Ford EscortFord Escort ZX2 is a hot-looking compact coupe with a rakish design. Yet its handsome interior reveals a roomy back seat and surprisingly large trunk. ZX2 provides responsive handling and good road manners and its engine delivers decent power. At the same time, the ZX2 is a practical car, with plenty of room in the back seats for friends.
Have a 1997 ford escort 4 banger auto trans that's leaking trans fluid where it bolts to engine--think it is trans front seal.
Never worked on a fwd sideways motor trans like this.
Anyone have a step by step on how to remove trans from bottom ???.
Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.
Unplug the Computer Control Relay Module (CCRM) electrical connections, unfasten the relay retainers and remove the relay and bracket from the engine.
Unfasten the shift control cable and bracket retaining nut from the manual shift lever , remove the shift cable and bracket clip, then set the bracket and cable assembly aside.
Tag and disconnect all electrical connections from the transaxle.
Remove the starter motor.
If equipped, unfasten the throttle valve actuating cable bolts and disconnect the cable from the throttle cam.
Install Engine Support D88L-6000-A or equivalent to the engine. The engine must be properly supported for transaxle removal.
Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle and disconnect the transaxle cooler lines at the transaxle.
Remove the left-hand engine mount bolts and the mount.
Remove the upper transaxle housing bolts.
WARNING
Failure to install the transaxle plugs may cause the differential side gears to become improperly positioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align them.
Remove the engine support crossmember and the catalytic converter.
Disconnect the A/C line from the retainer located on the engine support crossmember.
Unfasten the transaxle support crossmember bolts and nuts, the left-hand engine isolator nuts, and then remove the crossmember.
Unfasten the transaxle housing cover bolts and remove the cover.
Remove the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts.
Position a suitable transaxle jack under the transaxle. Secure the transaxle to the jack.
Remove the remaining transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If equipped, remove the left-hand splash shields.
Remove the transaxle plug and drain the fluid.
Remove the halfshafts. Install two transaxle plugs T88C-7025-AH or equivalent, into the differential side gears.
The upper front transaxle-to-engine bolt on 1997 models is equipped with a retainer and will remain in the engine block.
On 1997 models, unfasten the upper front transaxle-to-engine bolt.
Slowly lower the transaxle out of the vehicle.
Inspect all components including mounts and brackets.
To install:
Prior to installing the transaxle, lubricate the torque converter pilot hub with multi-purpose grease.
Align the torque converter studs to the flywheel.
Secure the transaxle on the transaxle jack.
Carefully raise the transaxle into position and install the middle and lower transaxle-to-engine bolts. Tighten the bolts to 40-58 ft. lbs. (55-80 Nm).
On 1997 models, install the upper front transaxle-to-engine bolt. Tighten the bolt to 40-58 ft. lbs. (55-80 Nm).
Install the flywheel-to-converter nuts and tighten them to 26-36 ft. lbs. (35-49 Nm).
Install the transaxle housing cover and tighten the bolts to40-58 ft. lbs. (55-80 Nm).
Install the engine support crossmember. Tighten the crossmember bolts and nuts to 47-65 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm) and the insulator nuts to 28-37 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).
Install the front and rear upper transaxle-to-engine bolt and tighten it to 28-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).
Remove the transaxle plugs and install the halfshafts.
Connect the crossmember to the transaxle mounts and the chassis. Tighten the crossmember-to-transaxle mount nuts to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-52 Nm). Tighten the crossmember-to-chassis nuts and bolts to 47-66 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm).
Install the lower transaxle-to-engine oil pan bolts and tighten to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-52 Nm).
Install the engine/transaxle splash shields.
Install the starter motor.
Attach all the electrical connections.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the upper transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten to 40-58 ft. lbs. (55-80 Nm).
Install the left-hand engine mount and tighten the nuts to 50-68 ft. lbs. (67-93 Nm).
If equipped, connect the throttle valve cable at the throttle cam. Adjust the cable as outlined in this section.
Remove the engine support.
Attach the shift cable and bracket to the manual shift lever, install the shift cable and bracket clip. Tighten the nut to 12-16 ft. lbs. (16-22 Nm).
Install the engine air cleaner assembly. Adjust the cable as outlined in this section.
Install the battery tray and battery.
Connect both battery cables, negative cable last.
Add the proper type and quantity of transaxle fluid.
Check the transaxle for leaks and for proper operation.
Check the manual lever position sensor for proper adjustment.
Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
__________________
1991 ford f150 ext/cab 5.0 m5od 4x4
1997 ford escort lx 2.0l
1988 lincoln continental 3.8l
Jeff
"If it ain't broke, you're not trying." -Red Green
But being new i maybe made a mistake about pulling trans to get to front trans seal. After looking at the step by step i see i do not have the
transaxle plugs or Engine Support tool plus maybe needing to replace half shaft seals if i bang them up.
It may be less work and thanks to take apart if i pulled the motor and not trans.
You have been agreat help and will be getting a manual as soon as i get back to work.
1. Perform the following basic steps for engine removal.
1. Remove the hood from the car.
2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped with A/C, have the system discharged by a qualified technician.
Tag and disconnect all the wires and hoses that would interfere with engine removal.
Tag and disconnect all cables such as the accelerator and kickdown cables (etc.) that would interfere with engine removal.
Remove the drive belt(s).
Drain the cooling system.
Drain the engine oil.
On 2.0L SOHC engines, complete the generic steps for all engines at the start of this procedure, then perform the following steps for removal.
Remove the battery and tray.
Remove the air cleaner assembly, then tag and disengage all wiring, hoses, cables and sensors, etc. that would interfere with engine removal.
Loosen the power steering pressure hose bracket bolts and set the hose aside.
Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield, exhaust manifold-to-catalytic converter nuts and one upper starter motor bolt. Position the starter motor bracket aside.
If equipped with an automatic transaxle, disconnect the transaxle cooler lines from the transaxle.
Disconnect the A/C manifold tube spring lock coupling at the accumulator/drier and the condenser.
Remove the drive belt auto tensioner and if equipped, the accessory drive belt tensioner.
Drain the power steering fluid and disconnect the lines from the reservoir.
Remove the splash shield, crossmember and the catalytic converter.
Remove the drive shafts and the A/C compressor with the lines still attached. Set the compressor aside.
Remove the radiator, fan and shroud.
Attach a lifting bracket on the left rear side of the cylinder head.
Remove the transaxle crossmember.
Unfasten the transaxle mount nuts and remove the mount.
Remove the right-hand engine support insulator through-bolt.
Attach a suitable lifting device to the engine.
Remove the engine and the transaxle as an assembly.
To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal, but please note the following important steps.
Engage all wires and hoses.
Have the A/C system evacuated and charged by a qualified technician using approved equipment.
Fill the engine with the proper type and quantity of oil.
Fill the cooling system with the proper amount and mix of anti-freeze.
Install the drive belt(s).
Fill the transaxle with the proper type and amount of fluid.
On 2.0L SOHC engines, pay special attention to the following torque specifications:
Tighten the right-hand insulator through-bolt to 50-69 ft. lbs. (67-93 Nm).
Tighten the motor mount bolts to 50-69 ft. lbs. (67-93 Nm).
Tighten the transaxle support crossmember inner retainers to 28-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm) and the outer retainers to 48-65 ft. lbs. (64-89 Nm).
Tighten the A/C compressor mounting bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
Tighten the muffler-to-catalytic converter to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm).
Install the crossmember and tighten the bolts to 69-97 ft. lbs. (94-131 Nm).
Tighten the power steering pressure hose connection to 15-18 ft. lbs. (20-25 Nm).
Tighten the A/C line bracket bolt to 15-18 ft. lbs. (20-25 Nm).
Tighten the exhaust manifold-to-catalytic converter nuts to 26-34 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).
__________________
1991 ford f150 ext/cab 5.0 m5od 4x4
1997 ford escort lx 2.0l
1988 lincoln continental 3.8l
Jeff
"If it ain't broke, you're not trying." -Red Green
After looking at info and car guess i will be pulling the trans, not motor as do not want to get into draining the AC and other things.
Think i can make the engine strap but not sure about the transaxle plugs as do not have the funds but will look on google to see what they look like and what they do and maybe can rig something up to work.
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How to remove escort auto trans ?? 
No problem glad to help!
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