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My 97 Expedition continues to have soft brakes even after replacing all pads (front and back) and the front rotors. I have thoroughly bled the lines but still have the same problems. Any ideas on the likely cause?
Thanks
Burntgarlic
Did you break them in? That's mandatory when you replace rotors. 30 stops from 30mph, with 30 seconds cooling time inbetween stops. It's called "bedding." The stops "embed" pad material into the pores of the rotor. It also heats up the pads and bakes out any manufacturing solvents. Makes a huge difference.
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I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. My blog now has over 400 in-depth repair articles, TSB's and wiring diagrams: Rick's Cool Website for DIY Auto Repair Advice
Thanks for the input - I just did the "bedding." I'll see how that helps. If this does not work, would you recommend replacing some of the brake lines, the Master Cylinder, and/or calipers? Which (if any) would contribute more to soft brakes?
Thanks,
Burntgarlic
Most people will bleed the brakes by pushing the pedal to the floor, this is what destroys the original old Master Cylinder.
During the Master Cylinders life it only travels in a small path and eventually wears a little metal away and creates a small ridge or lip at the end of the travel. Now when you bleed the brakes you push the internals of the Master Cylinder past their normal wear area and cut or damage the o-ring and cause a small leak that will get bigger.
I always place a block of wood under the brake pedal to only allow it to be bleed under normal or less brake travel, I havent replaced 1 Master Cylinder yet since I have started to do this.
Last brake job I bought a vacuum pump and now I can bleed all the brakes by my self!
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Mark V
Look for me on the PS3 network, I am usually playing Uncharted 2 demo right now. My PS3 name is delorean6683
Just a thought- If you're bleeding brakes by yourself, with a hose running into a jar of brake fluid... when the bleeder screw is loosened, a small amount of air can leak past the screw threads and into the wheel cylinder/caliper when you let the pedal back up. Years ago I had a problem with this, and now I get a helper to work the pedal. I attach the bleeder hose & run it into the jar, then have them press lightly on the pedal. THEN I open the bleeder screw. The fluid comes out under pressure, and I close the screw BEFORE they let the pedal back up. This keeps air from getting in around the bleeder screw threads. This works for me, I hope it is a help to you!
In general, if the pedal is soft, there's something in the system that has 'give'. Air bubbles are of course a prime culprit. New shoes (rear drum brakes) might not fit the drum precisely, and have a bit of 'springback' until they wear in. I would really go after air bubbles, & check the way the cylinders and calipers are oriented & where the bleed screws are placed- is there a way that air could get trapped in a 'pocket' so that it cannot bleed out? (I once had a car with a hydraulic clutch- the bleeder screw was on the BOTTOM of the slave cylinder- When I took it loose and turned it upside down (with the hose still attached) so that the bleeder screw was on the TOP.... THEN I got ALL the air out of it! Hydraulic cylinders and metal lines don't 'give' appreciably, and flex lines also don't 'give' unless they are REALLY old & in bad shape.
LOOK- EXAMINE- THINK- Figure out what is going on. DON'T blindly replace parts!
I agree Mark V prolly has it. The push of the pedal past it's "Normal" operating range almost always destroys internal "Seals" rubber ,brass whatever.. But drain and "Flush" your system use a block of wood or other means to prevent further Damage and replace with a good quality fluid also look for a Lucas additive or fluid to increase life and decrease "foaming"
Dgna5
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Soft Brakes after new pads & rotors 
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