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Almost any amp that's within the power range of the OE speaker, either mono or bridgeable will work. Also, try to find a connector that will plug into the factory harness so you don't have to cut up the original. Unless you're gonna go wild that is, at that point it's monster cable all the way.
Thanks for your reply..Not trying to go wild. Do you know of any amps that will have that connector? and what is the power range of this amp? I have no idea? Just trying to get it crankin again. Fastest and least inexpensive way possible.
The amp doesn't come with the connector, you get it separately. I'd search the net and try to find one, see if Scosche connectors makes one. Otherwise you're gonna have to cut the OE connector off and run the wires direct to the amp (which isn't really a problem, I just like to keep things "restorable").
As far as the power of the OEM amp, it doesn't really matter, you can usually adjust the amp's gain to get everything to sound right and not overpower the rest of system. What does matter is the speaker's power rating. But you could always get a replacement amp and speaker and not have to worry about the speakers rating, you can find them for $50 for both if you don't need audiophile quality.
How do you know the amp is the problem and not the speaker? The speaker is usually the weak point and tends to blow before the amp.
Thanks, I know the speaker works because I sliced into the wire and ran another power souce. Man I forgot how good that woofer sounded, sweet. So I cracked open the amp and I see where one of the capacitors burned up.
So much for that. (Check out pictures..)
Now what I need to do is figure out out what this 3rd connector wires are. I know one connector is the power wires, the other is from the speaker,, duh. and the last one has 3 wires in it. red/blk Green and orange/Blk not sure what those are for. I want to find a replacement tomorrow but I need to know what to look for. That's why I need to know what those wires are for..
Appreciate your time. Let me know if you come up with anything.
I don't see any popped caps in the pic (little cylinders with silver top), but I do see a resistor that got pretty hot, which is normal to see if a circuit is over worked. I don't know how many ohms the OE speaker was, but if it's replacement (the one in the pic) isn't the same as the OE, that would be why the sub's amp blew.
As far as the wiring goes there should be power, audio and speaker (audio in, audio out and power). If there aren't RCA terminals in the signal (audio in) wires remember that black is ground and is the outside of the connector and signal is the center pin. Also, make sure the amp you get is rated for whatever resistance the speaker is.
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98 EXPED EB- Rear Sub AMP. Replacement? 
Linear Mode
