2003 rear a/c problem

bdbertrand · 10-08-2006, 05:27 PM

The rear a/c on my 03 Expedition makes a noise that changes with the temperature control. it makes a clicking sound when on cold and as you turn it warmer, it makes a thumping sound. i removed the panel, opened up the vent/fan "area" and can see a damper that goes down (when cold) and makes a clicking sound because the motor is continuously pulling it down. as the temperature is changed to warmer, it makes the thumping noise.

The damper moves if i pull on it. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? i'm thinking some kind of sensor or relay that would make the motor stop when the damper gets to the desired position.

thanks

frog · 10-09-2006, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdbertrand

The rear a/c on my 03 Expedition makes a noise that changes with the temperature control. it makes a clicking sound when on cold and as you turn it warmer, it makes a thumping sound. i removed the panel, opened up the vent/fan "area" and can see a damper that goes down (when cold) and makes a clicking sound because the motor is continuously pulling it down. as the temperature is changed to warmer, it makes the thumping noise.

The damper moves if i pull on it. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? i'm thinking some kind of sensor or relay that would make the motor stop when the damper gets to the desired position.

thanks

saw this post elsewhere...I'm guessing it's your issue

...

You'll need part number #YL5Z-19E616-AA costs $86.06 + tax.

The box snaps apart by 2 plastic molded clips on each of the 4 sides.
The gears had teeth that were indeed broken. I did some more investigation as to why this happened. The box is a simple DC motor / gear assembly with a wiper resistance pot to feed back position. The cars controller does not have the correct set points for the stopping points. This problem drives the motor even when the mechanical stop (flap is fully open or closed) is reached. This continued pressure strips the gears and causes the clacking noise.
We all need for FORD to better engineer their vehicles so this does not happen.
I have not dug into the controller to see if the end points can be adjusted to turn off the motor at the end points.
Let us all know if someone does this work.
Hope this helps (it is not cheep)

you can refer to this thread for more info:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0a623b

bdbertrand · 10-10-2006, 06:46 PM

Thanks for the lead Frog. It sounds a lot like my problem, but I have an Expedition, so I doubt the part number will be the same. That thread was for an Explorer. I'll try to find the same part for the Expedition.

Thanks

peteocpa · 11-06-2006, 10:11 AM

Did you find the part number? My wife's starting doing this a couple weeks ago when the air was running in the rear. Now it does it all the time. She took it to Ford today and they told her $400 to repair it. Said it's some type of "door" from what she got from them. Sounds like the problem stated above and I want to do it myself. Guess I can call them and ask them, since she didn't feel the need to.

vernardretired · 11-06-2006, 04:13 PM

I have a knocking in the passenger side of my 2003 expeidtion. I was told that it might be the air blend actuator. I'm going to do more research one this.

Kcbranan · 11-10-2006, 02:58 PM

I just did mine last weekend it took about 45 min. Here is the part #YL5Z-19E616-AA I think it was about $48.00.

cencee · 09-13-2007, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kcbranan

I just did mine last weekend it took about 45 min. Here is the part #YL5Z-19E616-AA I think it was about $48.00.

Hey I got the same problem now where did you get your part ?

cencee · 09-13-2007, 02:40 PM

Any one know where to get this part from ? Is this just a dealer part? These dealers are ridiculous..

Andy B · 10-16-2007, 05:38 PM

FWIW, I have the 03 Expy with continuous rear air unit "clicking" or more accurately flapping of the air damper while the plastic gears in the 2L2H-19E616-AA grind away into toothlessness. Ford designed this unit to find the end of travel by jamming the motor to a stop and monitoring the current to determine when to stop applying voltage. That would probably be fine if the gears were designed to handle the jammed torque or the motor did not slip out of groove and continue turning and cracking the plastic gears. How can Ford continue to provide its customers the pleasure of paying for this obvious design defect? I guess those without conscience get away with what you can when they can.

The rest of the rub is that the two gears that get chewed up cost WAY less then $1. I think that most of you know how much it costs to replace those $1 parts. THANKS FORD!

ron2830 · 01-21-2008, 11:12 PM

just bought a nice 2003 Expedition with high miles (95K) as a tow vehicle for my boat and did not pick up on the problem until having it a couple of days. Dealer (to their credit) agreed to pay for part and I fixed it. Easy to replace part once you get to it, most time consuming is removing the trim pieces......

The upper and lower trim panels at the tailgate that run side to side must be popped off to remove the upper corner piece and panel on the right side. Then you remove the upper rear corner trim piece by carefully working your fingers under the edge and popping loose the clips. You have to remove the seat belt bolts for second and third seats at the anchor points (two torx and one hex bolts) and a small bolt concealed behind a circular plastic piece above the second row seat shoulder harness aduster. This little trim piece just pops off with a screwdriver. Then you remove the upper trim at the second row seat. After that, the side panel will come off if you just give it a good pull around the edges feeling for the clips as you go. There is enough play in the seat belt retractors to pull it away to access the part. Also need to remove threshold at right rear door. Pops off.

Goes back the same way, just kind of a pain to get everything lined up. This is probably why it is an expensive repair at dealer for the labor.

There are two white colored boxes, one is for the temp plenum door, the other the upper/lower air flow. To be sure, do what I did, turn on the ignition, rear ac/heat and listen for the obnoxious click/thump as you move the temp control from full heat to full cool, you will know which part. Disconnect the electrical connector, four bolts and it is out!

Go to your dealer, part should be about $60 or less, look on line, lots of dealers sell for this or less on internet.

Good luck,

BTW, as stated above, cheapo construction I took it apart, gear in box had two teeth broken, otherwise all worked, probably a 2 cent gear!!!!! A four cent gear probably would have taken the truck to the grave.

Ron