Changing brake pads/rotors, 2nd gen

[Charlie]

**Disclaimer**
First off, I would like to say that this method for changing brakes is not the method Ford uses (as far as I know). This is simply how many people change theirs (me included). I haven't had any problems with this. I do not know how or if Ford's method works, since I have never seen it. This project is done at your own risk, I claim no responsibility for any problems. If you feel that you are not capable of doing this properly, always have a trained professional do it for you.

Just had to put that in to cover myself. Now, on to business.

In this write-up, I will be explaining how change out brake pads, and rotors, on a 2nd gen Ford Explorer. I will only be showing the front in this thread, but if you can do this, the back is simple to figure out, as they are similar.

First off, when should you change your pads? When the pad material is less than 1/4" thick it's getting about time to change them. When they are less than 1/8", it starts to become a matter of safety. Also, if you brakes are squeaking, that is often a "wear indicator" built into the pad. Some are designed to make that squeaking when they need to be replaced.

Rotors do not need to be replaced as often as pads. There are several options of what you can do with rotors during a pad change. These are:
-Do nothing. If the rotor is in good condition, there is no need to do anything with it.
-Have rotor machined. If it has some grooves in it, you can take it to be machined down a slight bit, but this can only be done assuming rotors are thick enough/not grooved overly deep. This is often done over a rotor replacement, because it is typically cheaper. I suggest comparing prices of new rotor/having rotor machined before having it done. Depending on the price difference, you may wish to just go for new rotors.
-Replace the rotor. This needs to be done when the rotor is either worn down too far, grooved to deep, or if it is warped.


Now down to business. In this thread I am simply showing pictures of what needs to be done, not actually disassembling the components, since I took these while re-torquing the bolts. I should have taken the pictures during the actual install, but hindsight is 20/20. Also, all of the pictures are of the front driver's side.

Time: If this is your first time doing this, allow 3-5 hours, especially if you are by yourself and using hand tools. Obviously a buddy and air tools will make things go faster. I changed mine in slightly over 2 hours, and this is the first time I have. My time estimate of 3-5 hours may be very generous, but it's important that you are not rushed.

Skill level: I would say, if you can change your own oil/filter, you should be able to do this. It isn't particularly hard, you just need to do it carefully.

First step, get your tools. You will need:
-Sockets. I don't recall the exact sizes needed, but if you have a metric socket set ranging from 10mm-16mm, you will be set.
-Wrench for sockets/torque wrench.
-Breaker bar, especially needed if you don't have a torque wrench. These bolts will be stuck on very well, and also need to be tightened well when replaced.
-C-clamp which opens at least 5", with a block of wood. This will be used for pushing the pistons back. You can also use a portable vice/clamp. This is what I used: http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...arlie/vise.jpg
-Jack/jackstands/lug wrench. Anything you want to lift the vehicle, and remove the wheels. Be sure to use jackstand(s)

Optional things..will make your life easier
-PB blaster. Will help with the bolts.
-A buddy. Not needed, but may come in handy.

Step 1
First, jack up the wheel where you want to start, and remove the wheel. Be sure you have jackstands in place, and all safety precautions have been taken. Now, you will be looking at this.


Step 2
Behind the caliper, you will find 2 bolts. Remove these. Picture only shows bottom bolt, but the top bolt should be obvious. It's hard to see the bolt in the picture, because the rust on my car blends everything together, so I added an arrow.


Step 3
Slide off what you just unbolted. Be careful when removing it, not to put pressure on the brake line. After removing, DO NOT let it hang. Set the piston on something, such as a bucket/crate. Make sure it is stable, and will not fall.
Here's what you are sliding off (highlighted in yellow)


Step 4
Remove the pads, but make sure you noted how they are lined up, and which is front and back. Compare these with your new ones, and make sure you know how to put them back in, and that you have the proper pads for each side ready. After making sure you have the proper pads and know how they need to be oriented, slide the pads out. There is one on the front, and back (2 per rotor, one on each side of the rotor). They pull straight out. In this picture, you will be pulling out what is highlighted in yellow:

Now, if you are just changing the pads, continue to step 8. If you wish to remove the rotors either to resurface/machine them, or to replace them, simply continue with step 5.

Step 5
To remove the rotor, you need to remove the bracket that holds the pads and piston in place. You will do this by removing two bolts. You will probably need a breaker bar for these, and soaking them in PB blaster for a few minutes may help also. From behind the rotor, you will see 4 larger bolts. In this picture, I show which need to be removed. Remove the ones highlighted in yellow. The ones highlighted in red are simply highlighted so you can tell which to remove.
Again, I mention-don't touch the ones highlighted red. Remove the ones highlighted in yellow.


After you have removed the bolts, slide the bracket off. Now, pull off the rotor. It may be stuck on, so giving it a few taps from the back with a rubber mallet isn't a bad idea.

Step 6
Now it's time to put on the rotor, either after it has been machined, or the new one. It simply slides over the lug nuts as the old one came off. You may wish to put 2-3 of the lug nuts on to help hold the rotor in place for now, to make putting everything else back on easier.

Step 7
Put the bracket back on that holds the pads/piston in place. Be sure this is tight! This is crucial!

Step 8
Take your new pads, line them up, and slip them back in to place. They should slide straight in.

Step 9
Now it's time to put the piston back on. Odds are you won't be able to slide it back how it was, because the new pads will be thicker. So, here's where the C-clamp/vice comes in. Use the c-clamp and the block of wood, or the vice, to push the pistons back. When you are at this step, it will be obvious how to do it. Then, turn the vice/c-clamp in until the pistons are all the way back. The piston assembly will now slide back over the new pads nice. Be sure to re-tighten the bolts for this well, also.

Step 10
Put the wheel back on, tighten lugs...you know the routine. Now, repeat the above steps for the other brakes.

Step 11
After you are done with all the brakes, and have the vehicle back on the ground, go into the car. Pump the brakes several times (with the engine off) until the brake pedal becomes hard to push in. You need to do this to move the pistons tight against the new pads. Now, take it for a drive (carefully) and make sure everything works fine.

Step 12
After a week or two, go back and re-tighten all of your caliper bolts, to make sure they are secure.

Congratulations! You just changed out your pads/rotors. Feel proud, because you did it yourself, along with saving a sizable chunk of cash compared to having it done at a shop.

Hope this write-up helps!