Ford F - SeriesThe Ford F-Series lineup offers a plethora of models for every occasion or occupation, starting below $20,000 and climbing beyond double that. The F-Series line offers something on the order of 75 permutations, more than some car companies' entire lineups. All are capable of work or play, even those models with luxurious interiors, and all have four doors.
I have a '97 F150 with 4.6 V8, automatic transmission, 4x4. The truck was not used for approximately 1 year prior to me purchasing it. When I first purchased the truck it had a slight spark knock during acceleration, slight miss that seamed to clear up and would die when you came to a stop after driving when it was at operating temperature, unless the AC was on. But it was drivable.
Then it would sometimes exhibit a no start condition until it was cranked for several minutes. When it did start it would run really rough,like it had a miss fire or vacuum leak, but would clear up and run okay.
Now it runs rough anytime you start it up, seams like a bad misfire. It can be driven, however you can not accelerate fast or it sounds like it has major spark knock. I have replaced the sparkplugs with autolite platinums, new plug wires, removed the throttle body and spacer and cleaned the carbon deposits from them. Also cleaned the IAC. Also during the whole ordeal there has been no check engine light.
I have read many threads that point at a large range of possibilities but all of the threads have noted a CEL was on. As I have pointed out, I have no CEL on. This could be due to the truck not being driven for very many miles. Trying to avoid the high cost of taking to the dealer, but I am at my wits end for what the cause could be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Give her a good tuneup. YOu don't have a distributor cap do you?
YOu have coil packs right?
DO you have a cam position sensor, or a crank position sensor?
Check your coolent fluid level.
Did you consider cleaning your MAF?
__________________
BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
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My avatar is the load tester I talk about from time to time.It is a 3157 bulb and socket wired to use both elements with some aligator clips.This rig pulls 2.6 amps my regular test lamp is .13 amps.I can email the picture to anyone if they want a closer look,just pm me with an email.
i am going through the same problem right now, let me tell you what i did, i got the P0174 and P0171 codes and a code for a bad EGR sensor, i thinks its the dfpe sensor, replaced that put on a maf sensor, and it really seemed to help it, but it still knocks during accelaration i would say around 2000 to 2500 rpms, and hesistates really bad when accelrating around the same rpms, ive concluded that my fuel pump is about to shoot the craps, cause the codes are running lean codes not running rich codes, which tells me fuel isnt getting to the cylinders fast enough, and ive had multiple conversations with different mechanics, and that seems to be the general consensus, go spend a couple 10 or 15 bucks and have some do a fuel pressure test, if there is any big difference in fuel pressure might be from pre start and idle, then the pump may be going bad , and it might not hurt to go to a muffler shop and have them test the catalytic converter, to see if the exhaust flow is good.............just some thoughts
I have massive problems with this Truck
First driving up slight hill begin to accelerate and the Engine seems to mis BIG TIME at first i thought it was the drive train because it shaked the whole truck.
replaced a Coil seemed to work for a few days then it started again replaced another Coil. a few days later same thing. replaced all Coils and the damn thing still does it.
It really does it at low RPM at around 45-50 coasting than begining to accelerate. I have been nursing this from OD to no OD. and have tried to learn when to punch it to avoid the drastic shake from the engine..
My avatar is the load tester I talk about from time to time.It is a 3157 bulb and socket wired to use both elements with some aligator clips.This rig pulls 2.6 amps my regular test lamp is .13 amps.I can email the picture to anyone if they want a closer look,just pm me with an email.
I will be taking it in soon to change them. right now it is at the shop figuring out all the codes that keep popping up... My local mechanic suggested that i get a dealer to do it because of the known breaking problem with the 04 150 plugs...
I have been beyond frustrated with the dealers in my area because of the coils issue and still the problem.
as you asked about the plug so do my local mechanic...
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'97 F150 engine miss and spark knock 
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