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Ford F - Series The Ford F-Series lineup offers a plethora of models for every occasion or occupation, starting below $20,000 and climbing beyond double that. The F-Series line offers something on the order of 75 permutations, more than some car companies' entire lineups. All are capable of work or play, even those models with luxurious interiors, and all have four doors.

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Old 10-17-2009, 06:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Removing & Replacing Ignition Switch/Cylinder--1989 F250

Okay. . . Here's really a one-way post here, but comments, corrections, or other input are of course welcome. . .

I searched the entire forum for this specifically, but only references to everything BUT the 1989 F250 R&R of the steering column-based ignition switch. I ended up figuring it out on my own and thought I'd take the time to post for those not so fortunate to spend that kind of time doing so.

Disclaimer: While the below directions may suit other models of the F-250 or other car/vehicle models, this thread is SPECIFICALLY for the 1989 Ford F-250.

I was especially intrigued with the removal of it at first because a chat with the Ford parts counter dude said:

". . . it's simple. . . just put the key in the ignition, turn to 'run' position, and remove. . .no drilling is required if you have the key".

Turns out he either left out a key point (no pun intended), or I just wasn't listening close enough (probably the latter). But I DID figure this out, but only partially after watching a video I found on youtube (see link at end of this thread). There was no real mapping of that Ford Ranger video and the F250 however, but it DID get me to looking closer at the ignition switch on the F250.

This thread is intended to save anyone else the hassle of removing the steering wheel, turn signal mechaism, and all the other crap you'd deal with. 'Turns out, I had to tear it down this far anyway to troubleshoot a turn signal issue. But you DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL, COLUMN, or any other portion thereof.

Because of the level of teardown I was doing, I removed the entire portion of the steering column that holds/encases the keyed switch (see pictures attached/herein). If you view the first attached picture, you'll be viewing it at about the angle you'd see it in the driver's seat--thing to note is that there is no OBVIOUS button to push or drill out. But check out the 2nd picture, turning the photo just a bit (or looking further UNDER the steering column if fully assembled/intact) you'll note a little hole inside the indentation immediately below the ignition/key. THIS is the button that is referenced below. This thread does NOT address the drilling out of this button, but if you do not have the key, or the key doesn't work, this is the portion you may have heard when others reference "drill out the . . ."

To remove the cylinder/switch of the ignition:

1. Turn the key to the "Run" position -- finding the exact position of "Run" is not so critical, but the best starting point.

2. With a firm, round, small tool (I used a small punch tool), put a SLIGHT pressure, pushing in/downward on this "button". If it does not immediately release with a slight detent in/down, you may have to move it a bit toward the "Start" position; or even possibly back the other way, depending on wear or shape of your ingintion switch/cylinder. DO NOT FORCE -- it should not be necessary. Do not panic if you don't get it on the first try as you can "reset" and start all over. Simply put the key back in the "Off" position and repeat the above

3. You should "feel" it give and your tool will move slightly inward. You should THEN be able to pull out the switch/cylinder.


To REPLACE the cylinder/switch of the ignition:

1. The NEW switch/cylinder should be ready to install from the factory (approximately $35, 2009 prices). Simply line up the "grooves" in the steering column portion with the new switch (see other pics herein). Again, DO NOT FORCE --especially at this point--it is your NEW part

2. Once this is lined up, a slight push inward should do the trick to place the switch/cylinder where you can then turn the new keyed switch back to the "Off" position

3. Step #2 (immediately above) will then re-engage the "button" that you previously pushed in with your small, round tool (step #2 of "Remove" portion of instructions).

That should be about it.

Many other models around this year might very well work similarly. Now we folks that are searching for this problem under the F-250 forum have a bit more of a detailed step-by-step way to see what the others were similarly referencing. Best thing--you won't be bothered with the other "hits" that I received for the Tauras, Fiesta, and other great model cars. Again, this thread is SPECIFICALLY for the 1989 Ford F-250.

Aforementioned youtube link at end of sign-off/signatory. . .


Jesse/who-b-u-b

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Ignition switch-UNDER KEY.jpg (156.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Locked position.jpg (56.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg RUN position.jpg (42.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Tool push button.jpg (42.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg REMOVE cylinder.jpg (48.7 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Slots on IGN Cylinder.jpg (30.3 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Grooves in steering column.jpg (47.2 KB, 1 views)
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