Falcon - Granada conversion - Page 6

jonmark1985 · 04-28-2008, 07:03 PM

Hey that just makes me feel better, when I make a dumb mistake. Couldn't get my Firebird running right for the longest time, didn't have the condensor in, it sorta ran for a short time, but how it ever ran, IDK!

65 Falcon · 04-29-2008, 12:25 PM

I'm doing the same thing only with a 65 falcon wagon, but I'm using the Granada's C6 auto transmission and I have to lower the front steering so it doesn't go through the starter. Anyone got any ideas? It's my first conversion.

yank with ute · 05-03-2008, 08:11 AM

Yep, he's back!

The posts got me back into a "Falcon mood" (read that anyway you want, LOL!) and I spent some time in the back 40 looking over my collection of "projects". First time I've opened the hood of my remaining 64 in years. (Hummm, I thought the 302 was in here. Did the ex's lawyer take it for her...wait, I don't have an ex!)

When I did open the hood I noticed a few area you have come closs to but not out right mentioned. Maybe you might want to "lockout tag" this issues so they won't be overlooked as you complete the conversion.

#1 The 64 Falcon had a generator and therefore the voltage regulator WILL NOT WORK with an altenator.

- You will need a different voltage regulator*
- You will need to do some minor rewairing to the wiring bundle that runs between the regulator and radiator (if you use the stock wiring the system will short out)
- I hope you saved the CHARGING SYSTEM wiring from the Granada (wire bundle that attaches to the altenator) as it can be modified to work with the stock 64 wiring.

#2 You have replaced the solid steering shaft Falcon steering box with a later, rag joint/collapasable steering shaft (the part the steering wheel attaches to).

- Without parts on hand to examine I'm thinking you might not be able to run the later shaft in the Falcon mast jacket housing (fancy way of saying "tube" or "steering column")
- If you can the rag joint unit will require a second carrier bearing within the tube (the Falcon has only one at the top of the tube) or the steering wheel will move in all directions.
- If you go with the later mast jacket from the Granada, the stock Flacon is seruced to the underside of the dash with only one "u" bracket, the Granda needs two for stability/support. I'm digging though my magazine collection trying to find the copy of the Aussie mag "Supercar" for the photos of how they adapted the later unit to their early Falc.

#3 You suggesting the Garanda transmission crossmember section would be a base for the new trans mount -

- Happened to find one from a Maverick last night (same as Granda) and rotsa ruck! It's formed in a channel shape and the space between the ears is narrower then the Falcon crossmember, and... (yes, I love to play with dots)
- It places the rubber instulator too far back for this instillation.
- The hole for the parking brake cable interferes with the need for a bolt hole for the through mounting bolt.

-> Again, Supercar had a good idea but I can't seem to generate any intrest from the Aussies/Kiwis in my request that they post a photo of Castlemaine's Falcon V-8 crossmember.

-> So I suggest, since there is no question you have certifable welding/fabrication skills:

Cut a piece of rectangular steel tube longer then twice the width of the hole in the underfloor crossmember for the parking brake cable. The tube should be close to the mesurement of the Falcon crossmember.

Place the tube flat across the bottom of the cross member and fabricate (vertical) tabs to attach it to the cross member via the stock bolt holes.

Weld a tab projecting forward to reach the C-4 mount, gusset as needed.

Reason: Ford mounted the rear of the trans too high in the production car. You can lower the trans to the correct position (in regards to the angle need ed for the "U" joints).

As I recall the Castlemaine unit had a thin plate (not the mentioned tabs) welded to the front of the rectangluar tube and in the rear the same thickness plate was welded to the top of the tube.

Extended to the rear of the tube was the parking brake lever.

-> As I have stated elsewhere the Castlemaine unit has ears the full width of the trans cross member, side subframe to side subframe. They use four bolts to retain the drop out, two in the stock holes, two outboard.

But since their design covers the factory hole for the parking brake cable they added a new hole in the face plate of the new drop out. (Hard to explain without a visual aid).

If push comes t shove I make a mock up and try to post a photo.

(We now return you to your normal activity...)

yank with ute · 05-03-2008, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 65 Falcon

I'm doing the same thing only with a 65 falcon wagon, but I'm using the Granada's C6 auto transmission and I have to lower the front steering so it doesn't go through the starter. Anyone got any ideas? It's my first conversion.

Ya got me curious, what do you mean "doesn't go through the starter"? Are you using the stock 6 steering?

Details, please. I know the stock centerlink won't clear the oil pan but I've never heard anyone say what you have about the starter.

Peps · 05-03-2008, 06:26 PM

thank Yank, thoses are all issues on the back burner. I will be re-wireing the whole car with a Painless fues box (12V) and run a 1 wire GM altinator, I plan on using either a IDIDIT tilt steering column, but today a guy offered me a Granada tilt column he is not using. plan A is to use a rag joint with a carrier bearing, but ill cross that bridge when i get there. and yes, I will fab my own tranny cross member since the Granda one is too wide. All thoes issues have been thought about, but not time to act on yet. please stand by, ill get to them in due time.

note to self: e-brake still needs to be thought out...

Peps · 05-03-2008, 06:46 PM

OK, back to some pics.

these are mainly for my brother who ill bet is lurking out there somewhere.
got to do some engine assy work today. its a 302, 030 over with crank .020/.020 over. RV cam with stock 302 heads. nothing fancy on this build.

crank and pistons in

yes Dave, I did line up the timing marks

ARP main stud kit.

and yes, i did point the mains in the correct direction.

head on and torqued

and the new wheels and tires. this car always looks orange in my pics, its really a fire engine red...really it is...really

I have air shocks on the back, but they are all the way in the down position right now.

jonmark1985 · 05-03-2008, 07:27 PM

I've been waiting to see the engine pictures! Got some specs on it?

Peps · 05-04-2008, 11:49 AM

got a few more things done today. get really pissed at the auto parts store when i found out they put satin black tops on primer grey spray cans. didnt find out till it was too late. so i put the primer on to keep it from rusting until i get the back i want.
and yes i know i have the long nose water pump on, ill swap it out for the short nose later in the week, I had to use it for a spacer for the bolts to install the front cover. its not glued on yet.

if anyone has some pics of the bracket work on the front of the 302 please post them. I am thinking of doing the serpentine belt, but not for sure yet.
Im looking for the mounting of the alt and power steering.
thanks

Birdman · 05-05-2008, 10:27 PM

Nice Peps, it's cool to see this car transforming one step at a time.

Peps · 05-10-2008, 05:08 PM

didnt seem like i got much done today, but it took all day to do it.
painted the "tired 'ol" 302 black, put on the water pump and carb. then figured out how i am going to mount the P/S pump and Alt (GM one wire). had to make a bracket for the P/S, its not cleaned up or painted yet. either are the pulleys. still not sure if this is the final configuration on the P/S yet, I might drop it down lower.
should be able to install it all in two weeks.
here are the pics....as usuall

the Tired 'Ol 302

the C-4 has been re-built and read to go.

P/S home made bracket

front view