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01-14-2008, 07:28 AM
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#11 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 6
| Electronic Choke? Is there any sort of electronic sensor that will act like a choke in these cars? I have narrowed down my vibration problems to only when it is cold and damp and as soon as it dries out, it seems to get better. I have checked all the other things but this seems like the most logical- the car almost feels like a rig using engine brakes when slowing without brakes and just using tranny(only when cold and damp). Almost seems like its running to rich until it warms up. does this sound logical to anyone else? |
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01-20-2008, 11:31 AM
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#12 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2
| Part of the answer Okay, for all those of you who have had bad vibrations in the mornings when its cold, this is why. Sometimes with the temperature drop, when you start the car, the car gets flooded with gas. I had a mechanic from Firestone tell me this happens sometimes. He also told me that when it happens, all I have to do is put the car in neutral, hold the clutch, and press the gas. This burns off the excess gas and should return the car to normal. That's why it goes away when the temperature goes to a decent one, because the excess gas is being burnt away. It works for me. If it doesn't work for you, then i would suggest you take your car to Autozone and get their free diagnostic test. it will tell you what is wrong with your car. Hope this helps. |
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01-20-2008, 11:38 AM
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#13 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2
| Does anyone have a diagram or anything that could tell me where a vacuum leak could be. I took it to Autozone and they told me that I had a vacuum leak. Now I just gotta find it. Can anyone help? |
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01-29-2008, 06:39 PM
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#14 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5
| My 2004 SE has bad vibrations as well. But worse than that it has left me completely stranded for the stupidist reason. It is too cold to start the car, -40C, and the inside pull to open the hood seems to be frozen or something and will not pull. So I have an absolute useless car that I can not boost or plug in (the plug in is under the hood)! Maybe these two problems wouldn't be so bad but when added to the worn out belt, falling off shield on the bottom, heated seats that do not work, two power windows that do not work, and my all time favorite the exceptionally difficult doors to open (one of which will not open) all I can say is I am done with ford! The most humorous part of it all is I had many of the same problems with my 1985 tempo! In 20 years ford still couldn't get it right, my friends with imports are having an easier time with the cold then I am with my "winter equiped" domestic. Thank you FORD for the reliability that you have continued for two decades I am one customer that you have completely turned off your products.
Last edited by eq_sport; 01-29-2008 at 06:42 PM.
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01-29-2008, 06:40 PM
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#15 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5
| Oh and I forgot to mention the lovely felt back wheel wells, nothing says cheap like felt |
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02-22-2008, 05:48 PM
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#16 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 6
| I had vibrations too. The whole car would vibrate. It took them a week to figure out that it was the engine mounts. $300 to repair. Check motor mounts! |
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02-26-2008, 01:27 PM
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#17 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
| Answering to jimmyzs2003 Hello!!!
I have a Focus 2000 automatic transmission and have the same vibration problems when starting cold. I have not changed the timing belt yet and want to thanks the person who gave us this tip.
In the case of jimmyzs2003, that code is related to vacum leakage... I suggest to check first the hose that goes from the enginge valves cover (PCV valve) to the accelereation body. I had the same problem like a year ago and once I replaced that hose the problema dissapeared. Sometimes it is just fractured so it is not easy to identify the portion of the broken hose. This should not be an expensive part. If the problem persisits, then you should check if the IAC Valve is properly tightened. If the problem is still not fixed, you should start checking your engine cover, it could have a vacum leakage and you could need to go to someone dedicated to repair this stuff.
I hope this helps. |
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03-04-2008, 06:50 PM
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#18 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 3
| Hello,
I have a 2000 ford focus zts(dohc) .I hate this car but I do not have any money to buy new one. I have alot of problems with this car.EGR VALVE,MOTOR MOUNTS,INTAKE MANIFOLD,IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, PCV VALVE AND HOSE all changed. After that it was ok for couple of week now I have a problem again. The car idles by it self. Even though I stop at the light or anywhere it still idles around 1000 rpm and then it goes down little by little to 750 and starts shaking. If I put it at park or Natural it stops skaking. Another thing is whenever it idles high it does not shake at all. I do not know what is the problem. I am going to go nuts! Please help. |
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03-18-2008, 08:36 AM
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#19 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 6
| Definately motor mounts. I have finally got around to changing the front pass. side motor mount and all the shaking and grinding is gone! The Ford dealership I deal with says that this is a common mount to go in these cars. A very easy do it yourself fix(google it) and a $100 part, and it runs like new!  |
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03-19-2008, 05:37 PM
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#20 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2
| Thank you jdeane I will try it changing the mount. |
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