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Ford Freestar The Ford Freestar is a solid, highly capable minivan that performs well and offers all the latest safety features. Much of the Freestar's structure and design came from the Windstar it replaced. Windstar offered class-leading safety and solid performance for its time. Freestar is the highest quality minivan it has ever built.

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Old 05-20-2009, 10:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Advance Trac Fault

'04 Freestar: Advance Trac system randomly deactivates - "Trac Off" warning light displayed. System cannot be reset manually with the control button on the instrument panel. Engine must be shut-down and restarted to reactivate the system. May occur only once a month or as frequently as several times a day. Ford Dealer states that a trouble code is probably set - but is volatile and cannot be retrieved after a restart! (???)

Anyone had a similar problem, or a successful repair?
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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'04 Monterey I just bought: it comes on after driving a short distance, and stays on. The last service noted some problem with LF brake, so I will buy a set of pads and dig into it. Will let you know.

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Old 05-27-2009, 08:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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After searching for a solution on this site, and reading through 2 years of "me too's" on another site , I came across this post. Other's posted that it worked for them too.

Good luck.

This may help somebody with the "TRAC OFF" issue.

Had the pesky "TRAC OFF" issue with my 2004 Freestar any time Iwas moving forward. This would occur as soon as I started moving, 50 feet down the road, 1/2 mile down the road or 10 miles down the road, there was no common denominator. Discovered that the CRUISE Control didn't work when the system turned off the TRAC CONTROL. Well, I put it up on ramps and crawled under the drivers side to the ABS controller bolted to the undercarriage. Took off the plastic cove and saw no visible issue with the unit or connector. Disconnected the positive battery terminal andconnected a jumper wire between the positive connector and the negative terminal to disipatethe voltage in the CPU/modules and system. Then I pulled the connector off from the back of the ABS module. Pins and power connectors has very light oxidation on them. Cleaned the pins and power connectors with Q-Tips and BRAKE-CLEEN (Red can)sprayed onto the Q-Tip. Applied a light coating of dielectrical grease to the connector itself and re-installed the connector. TRAC Control and CRUISE Controlis working as designed at this time.
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Old 05-28-2009, 01:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info, Joe. I pulled the LF wheel, and found the speed sensor is open circuit. I haven't firgured out how to remove it, and my service manual for the '02 Windstar shows a different unit, which is held in by a small bolt.

I'm surprised there wasn't ABS warning priority over the Advance Trac warning.

I'm off to Autozone for a sensor and pads. Does anybody know the wear limit for the rotors? Mine are worn some.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I recently did brakes on my daughters Toyota Highlander. New rotors were only about $10 more than having the old ones cut.
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Its funny how a little corrosion can be so frustrating. Not really. I guess ironic.
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Old 05-29-2009, 02:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Need clarification re: use of dielectric grease (as referenced in a post found by BroncoJoe). Dielectric grease is an electrically non-conductive and moisture-repellant silicone product. Seems that it would not be appropriate to apply directly to electrical pins and connectors as it would reduce the efficiency of the connection. Perhaps the success reported by the original poster was due to the simple cleaning/removal of some oxidation in the connection. Application around the seams of the connector cover to prevent moisture/contaminant intrusion would seem more appropriate. Comments?
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Old 05-29-2009, 04:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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BEachcomber,
I agree with you about the grease.
IT seems that a little is good, a lot is bad.
When I am not sure, I'll clean a connection, and put it together without the grease, and if it corrected the problem, take it apart, grease it and put it back together. The grease acts to prevent future corrosion, not enhance the current connection. At least that is the understanding that I have come to have.
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The connectors in the engine room of our new '86 Sable were packed with dielectric grease. Ford got cheap between then and the '99 Windstar, the only one I've checked in that interim, and left it out. They must have figured out it wasn't a factor during the warranty period. Our '93 XJ-6 doesn't have dielectric grease in the connectors, either, and neither did our '79 Cadillac Seville.

Yes, it seems nutty at first blush to have any insulating grease in a connection, but it prevents oxygen from entering the area that would cause *oxidation* (corrosion). Every metal but gold will develop surface oxidation when exposed to air. That oxidation roughens the surface, and prevents pure metal to metal contact.

Disengaging and re-engaging connectors will make a wiping action on the contacts which will penetrate the oxidation layer. That's why sometimes electrical failures are "mysteriously" cured during troubleshooting.

A solvent cleaning, even WD-40, followed by dielectric grease, will prevent future corrosion. It's said that WD-40 will actually attract moisture after about six months, so you need the grease. The wiping action of the connector engagement is often enough without the solvent.

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Old 05-29-2009, 11:02 AM   #10 (permalink)
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It's said that WD-40 will actually attract moisture after about six months.
Gee. I never heard that, and it doesn't make sense.

It is my understanding that WD stands for Water Displacement and 40 is the number of attempts made until the experimenters had a working product.


I guess it is possible that the oil may trap passing dust, and the dust might attract moisture.
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