CVT Filter and Fluid Change with PICS!

[dmckmc]

I had the opportunity to take pics while changing the fluid and high pressure filter on my '05 Freestyle. It has 107k miles and this is the first CVT service. I have had zero issues with this transmission and was a little reluctant to open things up. I plan on keeping this car for several more years so I decided it was necessary.

Important notes and summary to see if this is for you:

I would call this procedure above the skill level of your average do it your-selfer (oil changes, radiator flush etc) and about the right skill level for you shade tree mechanics (brakes, axles, rear plugs etc). If you plan a drain and refill only, the average do it your-selfer should be just fine.

You will need some special tools - #25 and #40 torx bits, 20" long 3/8" socket extension, 18" or so funnel or fill tube, loctite or similar threadlocker.

Parts: 6 quarts Ford CVT fluid XT-7-QCFT, CVT high pressure filter kit FT-178

Time: took about 3.5 hours total

Procedure: Locate MAF sensor on air intake and disconnect (slide red clip up then pull entire plug firmly).P1020052.jpg Unhook air filter cover then move/bend cover out of the way. P1020044.jpg I also removed the lower portion of the air filter but it was not necessary. You now have access to the filler cap and dipstick!P1020043.jpg Remove filler cap/plug by using the 3/8" socket extesion (no socket on the end, the cap fits like a socket). This took some effort but finally 'broke' and unscrewed easily. At this point I drained the fluid by removing the fluid pan plug using the #40 torx bit.P1020047.jpg. You want to catch in a clean, empty bucket so you can easily measure and replace what comes out. Mine emptied about 5.25 quarts. The old fluid was clear orange-brown and the new fluid was a light, clear blue-green.P1020056.jpg If you were just doing a drain and fill, you're nearly done. You can find fluid level checking procedures detailed on this and other sites. It is temperature dependent.

Now for the fun part. Lift the front driver corner of the car and safely block in place. Remove the wheel and you will catch a glimpse of your target, the high pressure filter cover! I have circled two of the three #25 torx bolts that must come out.P1020064.jpg. Don't remove these yet, we have to get one more thing out of the way to make this happen (ok two things, the wheel well splash guard/liner will need to be either removed or bent out of the way). Remove the transmission support (six bolts). This may sound scary but it's not. The bracket is two part with a heavy rubber bumper in between, so it has wiggle room. Just gently support the transmission (I used the tire jack with a scrap of wood) and then use the socket extension to get the torque needed to break the bolts loose. Notice the blue/green flakes in the four upper bolt holes. These bolts were locked in place with blue loctite so replace them with same. P1020040.jpg The support then easily lifts out and looks like this: P1020041.jpg. We now have a clear shot at all three torx bolts and plenty of room to work. Notice the tire jack with scrap of wood supporting the transmission. This is also a clear picture of the high pressure filter cover and fluid cooler tubes.P1020042.jpg

See next post for more

[dmckmc]

This is part two of CVT Filter and Fluid change for a 2005 Ford Freestyle Limited AWD.

Next remove the bolt holding the fluid cooler tubes. This removes easily and the tubes simply lift straight up.P1020048.jpg

We are now ready to remove the three #25 torx bolts holding the high pressure cover in place. Be ready with a pan or kitty litter because when this comes off it will spill its contents (like when removing an oil filter). The blue arrow points to high pressure filter feed tube and the red arrow points to the top of the filter. Remove both of these and discard. Also remove and discard the four O-rings on the two cooler tubes. All new rubber comes with the filter kit as does a new feed tubeP1020049.jpg.

As a side note here, the new filter is very different from the old. The old is much heavier duty with wire mesh holding the filter and has metal end caps. The new filter is like a lawnmower air filter. It has no wire mesh and has rubber ends. The feed tube is also different. The new tube has a bonded seal over a metal tube (sort of like built in O-rings) and the old is a metal tube with standard O-rings. Next pic is the old rings, filter and feed tube (also a bottle of new fluid). P1020051.jpg The biggest ring is off the high pressure filter cover (not pictured). This pic is the new kit. P1020050.jpg

Now lube all the new rings and feed tube with fresh CVT fluid and replace as per kit directions. Replace filter (came with O-ring attached). Replace filter cover (don't forget new ring here too). This took a little lining up and pressure to get back into place. Replace the three #25 torx. Replace the cooler tubes (with new rings of course) and cooler tube bolt.

At this point I replaced the pan plug and filled with new CVT fluid (replaced exactly what came out). This is where a long funnel or fill tube is handy. Replace the fill plug. I started the car next (parking brake on, you may get a check engine light because your MAF sensor is unplugged so plug it in. I did get a check engine light with code P 0113 - IAT high volt. This happened because the IAT sensor is built in to the MAF sensor and I started the car with the sensor unplugged. I later cleared the code, all ok. You can disconnect the neg. battery terminal for about 30 min. to reset the code if you don't have a code reader) and checked for leaks. I did not shift into drive or reverse because the transmission bracket is not yet attached. Yea no leaks.

Now find that transmission bracket and replace it with all bolts, remember to loctite the top four (not sure of the torque here). You are nearly home free! Replace your tire, remove all lifts and supports reattach your MAF sensor and start up once more. Place in drive, reverse etc and check again for leaks. Check final level of fluid (see other peoples posts with details, this is temperature sensitive). Finally replace the air filter housing. Test drive and do a final inspect for leaks. YOU ARE DONE.

[theoldwizard]

WOW !! Thanks for a great write up and really good pics !

Hope to see more posts from you soon !

[glmf]

Thanks for taking the time to post this, its a great help.

[Bart2009]

Great job with description and pictures. This will make the job much easier for me when I do it next month on my 06 Freestyle (59K miles).
Thanks

[BrettS]

I was having some trouble with my freestyle and the dealer decided that they needed to replace the valve body in the transmission. Luckily this is covered by my extended warranty, and they'll also need to drain and refill the transmission as part of the work.

I was rather happy about this, because I bought the car at about 74K and I had no idea if the previous owner did the 60K transmission service on it or not. I asked the dealer to replace the high pressure filter while they were working on it, so I would essentially wind up having the 60K CVT service done and I wouldn't have to worry about whether it was actually done at 60K or not.

Initially the dealer told me they could do the filter for $70, which apparently was just the cost of the filter, but he just called and told me now that they would have to charge 2 hours of labor in addition to the cost of the filter... that puts the filter change at a little more than $200... and I'm having a hard time deciding if it's worth paying that.

In looking at this write up I feel confident that changing the filter is something I could tackle myself, but the write up also assumes that you'll be draining and refilling the transmission at the same time. I'm not sure if the transmission needs to be drained to replace the filter or not. If you don't have to drain it then I'll probably just call the dealer and tell him not to worry about it and I'll do it myself.

If removing the filter will drain the transmission then I'll probably give in and let them do it anyway... I'd probably pay nearly as much for the fluid as I'd pay the dealer in labor to do it, plus I'd have to deal with draining and refilling the transmission.

Do you guys know if the filter can be changed without draining the transmission?

Thanks much,
Brett

[John670]

This is a lot of help. It makes the job easier. I feel that I will have no trouble following your instructions. Thanks for this post.

[Jack Watts]

awesome post, pictures. Thanks!

Two quick questions: did you drain with the transmission in neutral, and did you monitor the temperature? (I'm wondering how big a deal the temperature monitoring is?

Thanks again!

[dmckmc]

Fluid was drained in park with emergency brake on. I did warm the car to temp and cycle through R,N,D,L before draining. Once drained, I let the fluid in the catch bucket cool to outside temp and then replaced one to one what drained out. I did check the level later to ensure it was ok using the engine temp via the engineering mode. This is a little tricky because the temp rises quickly as the engine is running and the engine must be running to check level. There is about a one quart difference in level between running and not running. Running, the level hit about two-thirds between bottom and top marks and not running the level hit way over the top marker (much like a regular A/T).

[nynd]

Thanks dmckmc! I did the CVT change today following your guidelines. I referenced the shop manual and not sure if the dipstick is suppose to be checked with the vehicle running or not. I doubt it would be running as they "Ford" wouldn't want you messing inside the engine compartment with the engine and belts moving - heaven forbid. I took out about 5.75 L and put back in the same. Checked the fluid once hot and according to the shop manual, it indicates that it should be just above 1/2" from the top hole. And in a cool state, it should be just under the top hole. Just my additional to a good post!