Strut and Strut Mount Replacement PICS! Page 1

[dmckmc]

I recently finished replacing the struts and strut mount plates (bearings) and wanted to share the procedure with pictures. 2005 Freestyle Limited AWD, 115K. Symptoms were: severe bounce, clunking noise over bumps especially with wheels just slightly turned either direction, uneven tire wear, excess body roll, etc. This is the first time I have done any strut so if you have tips to make it easier for other budding techs, please post them.

Parts: Monroe 72259 Right, Monroe 72260 Left, Motorcraft AD-1070 x 2 Strut Replacement Pics 001.jpg

Special tools: Spring compressors (all auto parts stores loan these), I'm assuming you have a hydraulic floor jack and I strongly recommend an impact wrench.

Difficulty level: This is a job for the advanced do it your-selfer. If you have: changed your brakes, removed your throttle body and cleaned it, replaced your rear plugs and/or changed the CVT high pressure filter, you can do this!

Time: Approx. 2 hours per side. Maybe less if you have done this on another car, maybe longer if this is your first time.

You will need the hood open to access the upper strut mounting bolts. Strut Replacement Pics 003.jpg Lift and jack the front wheel of choice. Remove the wheel. Remove the sway bar end link upper nut (attached to the strut). Strut Replacement Pics 004.jpg Remove the ABS sensor wire from the two mounting clips. Remove the steering tie rod nut from the knuckle. Strut Replacement Pics 007.jpg (note: what looks like something leaked everywhere is overspray from penetrating lube) Loosen the lower control arm nut from the knuckle. Note this is loosened only because the nut itself will not come off easily without some extra maneuvering. This extra work is not necessary to get the strut out. Remove the large bolt pinching the strut. Strut Replacement Pics 006.jpg

A side note here. Use your jack to raise and lower the control arm and knuckle to allow for easier removal and replacement of the sway bar end link and steering tie rod. Adjusting the height releases tension so you don't have to forcefully remove a fitting.

Move to the top of the strut (under the hood) and remove 3 of the 4 mounting nuts. Leave one loosened but attached. This allows for some free play (wiggle room) while removing the strut. DO NOT TOUCH THE MIDDLE MOUNTING BOLT at this time. Removing the middle nut now will make you say some bad words and make this job much harder. Only remove the outer (smaller) nuts for now. You are now ready to do some pushing. Push firmly straight down (towards the ground) on the knuckle. You will be pushing down with your hands on the disc and caliper. It may seem as if the strut won't come out or that the axle won't stretch that far but it will. Keep pushing firmly and wiggling and the strut will free itself. Strut Replacement Pics 009.jpg Remove the final small nut from the upper mount and your strut assembly is free!

Now is the time for the spring compressors. Use your impact wrench here for sure and tension the springs as evenly as possible. Strut Replacement Pics 012.jpg Follow the directions with the kit and please use what ever safety clips came with it. How far do you compress? I estimate I compressed mine a full spring spacing (maybe 2-3 inches?). It is not super critical as long as you can get the mounting bracket retaining nut off easily. Strut Replacement Pics 013.jpg

**see post number 2 for the completion of this procedure**