See Part 1
MC FL-820S
This one is hard to beat based on low cost, likely PureONE filtration, and other features. I’ll also watch for any changes to the Champ Ecore design which would be a concern.
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PureONE
I would expect same results as the current FL-820. I’ve seen 2-for-1 deals on Bosch and that may make it attractive. Your costs may change your preferences.
WIX 1372
Generally I consider this to be a well rounded, higher flowing filter. I see them as low cost substitute for K&N in sever & hard-driver applications, also perhaps for very cold weather. It bothers me that I can’t get a handle of media with WIX. I suspect right now the WIX Brand may be straight paper. Also I like the oversized 51592 with better 16 micron rating. The Glass Enhanced T-03 media may be ideal for this application providing flow rate and good particle filtration; but how do you know what you’ve got inside the filter ?
M1 210
Probably good flow rate and load-up characteristics using the synthetic-blend media. Absolute filtration may be slightly better than PureONE and have better flow but at what a price ! I have read some issues about inconsistent pleat spacing and think I could see it on the one I have. If I was doing 7-10K mile OCI then I would feel better using synthetic media.
K&N 2010
This appears to be a great combination of high flow and good particle filtration. If you really need oil pressure, I’d take a few more particles any day especially given the quality media available. If you are considering this one, I would also look at Ford Racing version.
Champ Ecore
The jury is still out on this design. I have read about the media getting sucked into the outlet, in both cases 20W50 was being used on larger engines. The bottom line seems only down side to this design. Smaller can, not better filtering, and lack of flow rating don’t warm my heart.
FRAM TG2
If you can get over their reputation and the possible use of cardboard end caps & plastic bypass valve then the Tough Guard would likely get you, arguably, some of the best filtration of this class based on information printed on the box.
Baldwin B329
Their website shows a two stage filter design which is interesting.
Donaldson also has this for HD truck applications but no metric threads.
BACKGROUND
The elements to consider for a filter for everyday use are:
1) Filtration (flow rate and particle size)
2) Cost
3) Anti-drain back valve (ADBV) material
4) Bypass valve location & material
5) Reliable internal construction (not addressed here)
The Brand you buy is often not the manufacture of the filter. I suspect within one Brand there could be a several manufactures across the product line. The Brand could specify something special but that could change, as well as, the manufacture. There may be even quality variations from plant to plant. Everything is subject to change and getting reliable information from Brands is not easy. Therefore these findings do not necessarily apply to other filters from the Brand.
I check the number and size/shape of holes in the base plate although this has little to do with flow. This is more to check similarities for manufacture. Next I look at bypass and anti-drain valves.
Filtration is a double edge sword. High flow rates can be achieved by letting larger particles through. Small particles can be filtered but at expense of flow rate especially latter in the life cycle. The way around this is more filter pleat area but if filter size is fixed then, at a certain point putting more filter material actually causes congestion lowering the flow rate.
Most filters are cellulose, which is paper. A few filters add resin to the paper or other material such as glass or synthetic fibers. A good discussion on filter media is on the Baldwin site and in the article below on motorcycle filters. Also see:
www.purolator-facet.com/pdfs/hpfilter.pdf for some visual comparisons of media.
The importance of particle size and flow rates is debated by the experts. Flow rates will also change as the filter is used and how dirty the engine is. I have had some engines run dirty and other run clean. I don’t know yet on the Duratec. See
www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/89-5R3.pdf on testing.
The Anti-Drain Back Valve (ADBV) is to prevent oil from draining the filter for good flow at start-up. Hydraulic lifter noise can be heard during start-up at times resulting from oil starvation. If the filter hangs down, with the base plate up, then ADBV does nothing. On my Duratec it is sideways so the filter could drain completely. The material is usually black Nitrile while a better material is the red Silicon due to longer life at higher temperature.
The Bypass valve opens when the filter pressure exceeds a certain limit, allowing oil to bypass filtration. The most common location is in the dome area of the filter can. Look in the hole toward the dome end and you can see a spring and/or other things at the other end if located there. If it’s solid then bypass valve may be in the base, if included at all. The better location for the bypass valve is in the base (threaded end) of the filter as bypass oil does not wash over filter material. The FL820 seems to have rubber covered spring at the base. Although it’s better to be in the base than the dome but the advantage is debatable.
Reference reading;
See
www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/index.html and click on elements for a good visual with description.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/52...il-filter.html http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/86...t-fl-820s.html http://forums.pickuptruck.com/showfl...87&Main=424294 http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about2557.html http://theoildrop.server101.com/ find section on Oil Filters
http://www.boatengine.net/t/049528.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:...s&ct=clnk&cd=5 http://www.contour.org/archive/showf...b=7&o=&fpart=1 http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:...s&ct=clnk&cd=2 http://www.motoroilworld.com/choosin...il_filter.html
Oil filters for Duratec 3.0L - Part 2 
Linear Mode
