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it's been tuned recently-everything new. timing, dwell, etc. it runs too sweet warm to be tune i think. not sure about the carb, but again, if it was a carb problem would there be such a huge difference between warm and cold?
isn't there a way to diagnose carbed engines with a vacuum guage?
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BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
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That's not true. The choke is cutting out way too soon. It's opening before it should. You can't say that the choke opens as it should, nor can you say it's not the choke. It is the choke.
I'll bet money that what IronMike said is dead on. Why do I think that? Well, I used google to research a little. It's a useful tool. More people should try it.
Here's what I found:
Quote:
Many Holleys come with electric chokes. I don't like them. This is due to the fact that they cool down faster than necessary when you shut the engine down. Hot air chokes are better, but if you want to use an electric choke, here is what you need to know.
Make sure there is airflow through the choke spring housing. This is the most common error people make, and it ends up burning the bi-metal spring. Holleys draw air through the choke spring housing to keep the spring from overheating. You must make sure that there is a clear path for the carb to draw a little bit of vacuum through the housing (there is a small vacuum passage behind the housing), and that the air gets filtered somehow, either with an external filter, or through a hookup to the bottom of the air filter housing. Many of them have a brass compression fitting. That is the air inlet to the choke coil housing. Some have a little screen with a brass coupling to keep out the big debris, but to make it work better, run a copper or aluminum 1/4 metal tube down to the exhaust manifold to draw in hot air and filter out the big chunks.
You will need a source of 12 volt power to heat up the bi-metal spring. This source must be energized ONLY when the engine is running, so make sure you don't hook up your wire to the accessory circuit. This, again, is how many bi-metal springs get burned up, because there is no airflow through the choke housing when the engine is not running. The hot side of the 12v wire hooks up to one tab on the choke, and the other tab of the choke goes to ground, usually one of the choke housing mount screws. I highly recommend putting a fuse of some sort in the line, because a failure of the bi-metal spring could cause an overload of the wire and a fire if there is no fuse in there somewhere, and typically ignition circuits are not fused.
So you see that your Holley 600 is actually more prone than most to burn up that bi-metal spring. Couple that with the fact that your choke is opening too soon, and you have your diagnosis. Your bi-metal spring is damaged. Replace it and make very sure that air flow for cooling described above is in place so you don't end up with the same problem.
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2005 Excursion XLT 4x4 with 5.4 3V & 4R100
1989 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab 4x2 with 460 & C6
1987 Crown Vic Two Door with 5.0 & AOD
1986 Yamaha V-Twin Virago 1100
For my sanity, please try to use punctuation and capitalization. I try to help the people who post, but it's impossible to do when the post is indecipherable.
i read that post already and it's a good resource. but the thing is that when these springs burn up they don't work at all, and the choke doesn't open.
this choke opens and from what i've seen of these kinds of electric chokes they all open in a few minutes. there's no way that it should be closed for ten minutes, you'll be running way too rich.
anyway, i tried adjusting it to go much more to the the rich side and didn't make any difference, except when you tried starting the car when warmed up it would tend to flood.
the thing is that it runs poorly even when the choke is on and the rpms are up; i had a full size merc years ago and it ran just as smooth cold as warm.
What burns up in a electric choke is the heating element and then they don't open at all. But what happens with the by-metal spring is all the open and close cycles fatigues the metal and it then opens to soon,Loses it's tension. You have to have a choke till the engine is at operating temperature or it will fall on it's face. That holly was also more of a performance carb and not that good in cold weather.You may also have more then one problem here.What did that full size merc have on for a carb? Stock,The factory carbs always worked better then after market for reliability.After market where more for performance never ran good when cold, Idle wasn't an issue
Also looking back at previous posts I would agree with Tbird,That the engine should have at least a 180 thermostat, If I knew what the vehicle was I could look it up and tell you what the factory called for
What burns up in a electric choke is the heating element and then they don't open at all. But what happens with the by-metal spring is all the open and close cycles fatigues the metal and it then opens to soon,Loses it's tension. You have to have a choke till the engine is at operating temperature or it will fall on it's face. That holly was also more of a performance carb and not that good in cold weather.You may also have more then one problem here.What did that full size merc have on for a carb? Stock,The factory carbs always worked better then after market for reliability.After market where more for performance never ran good when cold, Idle wasn't an issue
the merc had the same size engine interestingly enough -71 marquis - and it had stock carb. this vehicle is a 68 galaxy 500. i'm kinda wishing this one still had the quadrajet still in it.
i'm confused about the carb issue actually, i guess i don't get the point of holly carbs -a carb delivers the correct fuel/air mixture to the engine depending on load. what can holly do that the ford engineers didn't do?
so what you are saying is that if it takes an engine ten minutes to reach full operating temp the choke should be on all that time?
bit i still suspect this is a blind alley-i've never owned a car that ran so crummy "cold" then all of a sudden smoothed out, within 10 secs. it's so much like something is turned on...
What burns up in a electric choke is the heating element and then they don't open at all. But what happens with the by-metal spring is all the open and close cycles fatigues the metal and it then opens to soon,Loses it's tension. You have to have a choke till the engine is at operating temperature or it will fall on it's face. That holly was also more of a performance carb and not that good in cold weather.You may also have more then one problem here.What did that full size merc have on for a carb? Stock,The factory carbs always worked better then after market for reliability.After market where more for performance never ran good when cold, Idle wasn't an issue
But Bi-metal fatigue occurs MUCH faster when the coil is overheated. That's what I assumed to be the problem.
__________________
2005 Excursion XLT 4x4 with 5.4 3V & 4R100
1989 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab 4x2 with 460 & C6
1987 Crown Vic Two Door with 5.0 & AOD
1986 Yamaha V-Twin Virago 1100
For my sanity, please try to use punctuation and capitalization. I try to help the people who post, but it's impossible to do when the post is indecipherable.
the merc had the same size engine interestingly enough -71 marquis - and it had stock carb. this vehicle is a 68 galaxy 500. i'm kinda wishing this one still had the quadrajet still in it.
Is the intake original?
__________________
2005 Excursion XLT 4x4 with 5.4 3V & 4R100
1989 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab 4x2 with 460 & C6
1987 Crown Vic Two Door with 5.0 & AOD
1986 Yamaha V-Twin Virago 1100
For my sanity, please try to use punctuation and capitalization. I try to help the people who post, but it's impossible to do when the post is indecipherable.
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