347 Stroker???

mahanja · 05-17-2008, 01:20 AM

I have a pretty stout 302 that I'm looking to get some cheap torque and hp out of. I was wondering if anyone knows if I would have to clearance the block to drop in a 347 stroker crank. I believe I won't have to if I just go with a 331. Anyone?

jonmark1985 · 05-17-2008, 02:26 PM

I'm about 95% sure the 347 requires grinding out the bottom of the cylinders.

mahanja · 05-18-2008, 01:37 AM

Anyone know about the 331? I should probably just pull the pistons, clearance the block, and put it all back together. Any other suggestions on cheap tq/hp while I'm inside?

jonmark1985 · 05-18-2008, 07:21 PM

I'm unsure on the 331", but if you find something let us know.

If you're wanting to gain cheap horsepower inside, you may want to think about a windage tray, low tension rings, higher compression, lighter pistons, oil restrictors, galley plugs to keep windage off the camshaft, lighten the rods, degree the camshaft, balance the engine, blueprint the oil pump, and I have heard to primer the lifter galley to gain faster oil drainback into the pan.

mahanja · 06-06-2008, 10:24 PM

I figured I'd bump up the compression to about 10-10.5:1 and have been looking into roller conversions. The conversion isn't very cheap though. Most of the things you mentioned have to do with oil though. I hadn't even thought of oil control being that beneficial. How much can I lighten the rods without weakening them? Or do I just need to find lighter ones? Yet another trick I've never heard of. Too cool!

jonmark1985 · 06-07-2008, 07:33 PM

Remove ANY excess casting flash from the rods. By removing any material that isn't substantial to the rod's strenght you are actually strengthening the rod. Talk to your machine shop for more info, as this usually follows with balancing the entire assembly.