Problems getting out cv axle 93 ford probe gt

rgate88 · 02-27-2009, 10:23 PM

I have a guy who does all the work on my car, and I just found out the CV boot was busted and I needed a new axle. While trying to get it to come out, only 3/4 of the axle came out; the other quarter is still in the transmission. We've been trying for two days to get this out, and it is barely moving. From what we've heard, there is a little ring that is suppose to just pop-out, but we think because of how bad the axle was, that the ring got hot and welded itself to the transmission. Any suggestions?

probegt97 · 03-01-2009, 12:20 PM

There is a small clip holding it in the trasaxle, i had the same problem with my 93. if your inner socket is good just repack it with grease and reuse it, if not there is a procedure for it. you can stick the new inner socket on the old one and still get your core back.

90 Probe 3.0 V6 · 07-25-2009, 05:03 PM

I had the same problem with my axle. First off, if you insert the new axle into the old socket you will void the warranty on the new axle.
Here's what I did: I pulled the tranny, cranked on it with a crowbar, beat on it with a hammer and even got behind the socket with a six foot bar and pulled on it until I thought I was going to break the tranny housing.
Finally, I went to Advance Auto and rented a 10 pound slide pull kit; it cost about $130 to rent, but you get all your money back as long as you take it back.
I drilled three different holes approximately equidistant around the socket. Then I used the hook attachment in the kit, stuck it one of the holes and yanked on it for a while, switched holes and repeated the process. It took me 2 1/2 hours with the slide pull, yanking on it with all my might to finally get it out.
Then after all of that, when I tried to put in my new axle, it didn't want to go in. What I did to get that in was took a dremel tool and rounded of the splines on the very end of the axle past the clip - they don't do anything anyway. That made it slip right in.
Hope this will help someone in the future.

motomike33y · 07-27-2009, 07:46 PM

My daughter's 91 had the balljoint come apart and the wheel flopped, and pulled apart the inner cv joint. Now I'm trying to get the driver's side axle out of the transmission. It won't come easily, since it stayed in when the cv joint pulled apart. the haynes manual talks so easily about using a pry bar, but nothing seems to work. Anyone had any success besides the slide hammer?

robfer03 · 07-28-2009, 09:51 AM

Make sure you have the back tires blocked off unless the whole care is up on stands but put the car in netural. Which side are you having problems with? The passenger side has the transaxle that is bolted to the engine block which is held by two bolts if I remember correctly. Remove those bolts and pull the whole piece out to start prying on the rest of the axle. For any problems I've ran into, had someone under the car with a pry bar and me pulling on it.

motomike33y · 10-04-2009, 08:39 PM

Still no success at getting driver's side cv out of trans. got 10 lb. slidehammer, and tried w/adaptor that fits under joint-except it wouldn't slip under all the way. Finally I drilled and threaded 3-7/16 holes into base and bolted a plate onto it. I tried the slide hammer w/50 lb of free weight and still can't pop the stupid snap ring. I then put 3/8 eyebolt and tried to pop by pulling with the garden tractor. straightened eye-bolt. Tried 1/2" w/come-along, then hooked onto our dodge caravan-straightened that eyebolt also, but no luck popping the cv joint off. about ready to put things together w/a stub axle and see if the car will run w/one front axle. There has to be a better way.

chevycamaro210 · 10-04-2009, 09:56 PM

Remove the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint by using an angled prybar or a suitable tool between the front wheel driveshaft joint outer race and the transaxle case. Carefully tap the prybar end only enough to unseat the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip on the differential end of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure the prybar does not damage the transaxle case, differential oil seal, front wheel driveshaft joint or front wheel driveshaft joint boot. NOTE: To prevent damage to the differential oil seal, do not pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint all the way out of the transaxle. Apply only enough force to loosen the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gear. If necessary, replace the worn or damaged differential oil seal

blue beast · 10-05-2009, 09:01 AM

That LH cv can be a bear get a prybar( I used the jack handle from a nissan frontier perfect length and curve) and put a piece of steel across the transaxle(so you don't pry against one spot) and apply steady force while someone does the slide hammer!

motomike33y · 10-06-2009, 08:37 PM

Thanks to both-I need to get the car up on something so that I have room under it to work-I've been trying from the wheel's side, so haven't been able to come in from the underside with a pry bar-I like the idea of the tapered one so that I can put some pressure from the underside-hope it doesn't snow for a while so I can get it(and my son's subaru)fixed.

t99tim · 11-02-2009, 02:05 PM

I know with my nissan you can remove the passenger side drive axle get a long screw driver or something that size and feed it through the passenger side of the trans and hammer on driver side axle to get the drivers side out. I have a 95 probe that I replaced the auto trans twice but dont remember such hard problems with it compare to the nissan. I just needed a pry bar if i remember right. Hope that kinda makes since. I also had a heck of a time due to the retaining ring when reinstalling the driver side for the altima
Hope this helps course you may not be able to fit a screw driver or something through the transfer case cause it might have a pin that keeps the drives side and passenger side separate.