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Ford ProbeThe Probe appeared in 1988 and lasted until 1997 in the United States. It was based on a series of futuristic concept cars of the early 1980s, the likes of which have been seen in films like Judge Dredd, Back to the Future Part II and Total Recall. It was a coupe based on the Mazda GD platform, and was powered by a 2.2 L SOHC I4 cylinder Mazda F2 engine.
I have a 94 probe since I owned the fuel cutoff light has been on and the check engine comes on and off, but a couple of days ago it started running really rough and It would constantly stall and sometimes it would run ok but after about 25 mph it would start missing really bad and then the o/d light would flash on and off and stall it would restart and miss real bad for a couple of minutes then start running ok and I would start to drive it home and then once it hit around 20-25 mph it would start missing really bad again
I don't have a code reader and I am fincially challenged at this point so I just want to fix it as inexpensively as possible I was thinking it might be a bad sensor or the ecu might have taken a dump
Any insight would be greatly appreciated
thanks
Rich
Forget about the ECM, they rarely are bad!
I would consider the speed sensor. Take your car into your local Ford dealer and see if they can run the trouble code for the transmission, and possibly for the MIL too!
Get ready for the 351 boss build this summer, 4v closed chamber heads, 2.25/1.75 valves, .750 lift, 12.5:1 piistons, wieand tunnel ram, nitrous, I think its gonna roar!
which speed sensor are you talking about the TSS or VSS part of the problem is I can't really take it any where as It keeps stalling and running bad and the nearest dealer is across town and it would probably take several hours to get it there as I really can't afford to have it towed I saw that autozone has one for 29.99 but I am not sure how often I would use it
If you have an analog multimeter you should be able to check engine codes. Check on the internet, or stop by your local library to see if you can find a book on how to pull the codes in this method.
Get ready for the 351 boss build this summer, 4v closed chamber heads, 2.25/1.75 valves, .750 lift, 12.5:1 piistons, wieand tunnel ram, nitrous, I think its gonna roar!
I don't have an analog mulitmeter do you know if you can use a digital one as I have one of those and I have the page on how to use a mulimeter bookmarked but the picture shows a analog one like you suggested I really appreciate your help
thanks
Rich
Get ready for the 351 boss build this summer, 4v closed chamber heads, 2.25/1.75 valves, .750 lift, 12.5:1 piistons, wieand tunnel ram, nitrous, I think its gonna roar!
I bought my car 2 weeks ago and knew about the problem when I bought the car. The problem is well known for the distributors for mazda 626 2.5L V6 and Ford Probe.
You have to change your coil and the ignition module in your distributor. The original ignition module get too warm and need to be changed. When its very cold..like now in Norway, I newer have this problem.. On newer models, the ignition module is put in the coil or outside the distributor, to prevent overheat.
But you can also buy a new distributor, if it's hard to find a good price for just the coil and the ignition module.
It may also be the immobiliser, which have 3 slots bad solderen. Use google, and you'll find the answer on howto fix this yourself.
I'm sure this is the answer, but I'm going to inform you when I've changed the coil and the ignition module on my car. Have googled for 4 days now, checked a lot of things, so I'm pretty sure this is the correct answer to your problem.
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trouble with 94 ford probe se 
Linear Mode
