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Ford Ranger More than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.

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Old 10-06-2008, 12:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a 2000 Ranger. Any tips on removing the window regulator? It appears to be fastened to the sheet metal with rivets. I am guessing that I will have to drill out the rivets and then use nuts and bolts to attach the new regulator. Can anyone advise on this procedure?

Thanks

Last edited by rswad; 10-06-2008 at 12:46 PM..
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Old 10-21-2008, 07:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I purchased new motor and regulator assy. from AM-Auto Parts on Ebay. Received it
yesterday. It cost less than $63.00 including freight. It came in about a week. Part
looks great and will use information here to replace it. I was quoted price of $100 labor
by mechanic to do the job, but think now I can handle it. Thanks Guys!!!

Hopefully, I can offer my knowledge one day here.
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Old 10-21-2008, 07:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Got the panel off and switches out in 20 minutes! Got the new regulator and motor in
with help from neighbor holding glass, aligning motor, etc. in an hour. The regulator arm removes from the window track by sliding the arm toward front of truck. Two of the
switches were bears to remove, the power door lock and electric mirror controller.
I used two 1/8"x6" flat screw drivers to unlatch those two switches. Still have to put
panel back on tomorrow. I could see no way to get a bolt in top rear 4th bolt mount,
even with a hole cut in door. I may have to use rivet like the factory did on this hole.
Well pleased with everthing so far. Plan tomorrow to add lub. to window slides, etc.
and put panel back on. Overall job about 3 hours, total, for an old retiree. Thanks Guys!
Truck is a 2001 Ranger, XLT, Super Cab, I bought new.
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Old 10-29-2008, 05:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Got the last bolt in by putting the nut in door. I added two washers to 1/2" bolt head to keep the threads from striking the regulator arm in motion. The fourth bolt really make things stay where they needed to be. Got everything lubricated and the panel back on
New motor and regulator works great! I had two screws left, for the life of me, I don't
remember where they went. I should have written myself some notes on the locations
and sizes. I did Not have to cut a hole in the door, my 2001 is slightly different from the
door in the photos and could see no need to cut that hole. Not a bad job, overall.
Thanks guys for all the help.

Ford Ranger, 2001, XLT Super Cab, Four Door., 4 liter engine/2 wheel drive.
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Old 11-03-2008, 11:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i did my passenger side ('93 ranger) someone had been in there before making it super easy. the old motor had a "rebuilt-napa" sticker on it. the window had stopped working 2 years ago, was up all the way. cost 100 thru advance auto for a new motor. took apart the old one and there was signs of water entry. did the taurus drivers door yeaterday. that motor was 50 and took it back, found thet the relay that controls the "auto-down" feature was bad. parts store said was no longer available. found a way to bypass it. ran a wire from the "down" side of switch to the + side of the motor for "down" (white wire with tracer) have to hold the button, but so what, that motor would have been a real headache to change. the ranger motor was really simple to swap out. lubed the slide rails with wd-40. good to go.
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I just replaced driver side regulator, you do have to drill out the 4 rivets that are holding it. You do not have to remove the motor. I used 1/4" bolts to replace the rivets. Be patient and you'll get it ok. Thanks to old bubba for mentioning how to get the old reg. out of the track. Use a glove to reload the spring when you reinstall it, it BITES!!! 2 hour job.. not too bad though. I don't claim to be a mechanic but I did stay at a holiday inn. ;-)
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Great post, I was able to remove my motor, bench tested it with a battery charger and the motor will turn in both directions, seems a little slow. I put the motor back in and not changes, my passenger side window will go down slowly but will not go up, would this still be considered a bad motor??? Any ideas. Thanks
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:08 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I'm thinking about trying to do this myself and save myself $330. The motor replacement with Gear is only $45 at O'Reily's. However, I have a question or two. First, when you loosen the bolts on the motor, how do you get it out from behind that metal in the picture? Does it just drop down? Second, the gear I've circled in the picture. How do you remove it and replace it? Would it just make more sense to take it to the mechanic and have them do it? Any input would be helpful and I'd be super grateful. Thank you.

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Old 04-06-2009, 10:35 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The gear circled attaches to the window mechanism. That will have to be pulled out from the top with the glass and I never heard of one of these going bad.

The gears that go bad are on the motor its self, this is what you have that needs to be repaired.

The motor will pull out one of the big holes in the door. You probably will need a manual for better info if these pictures dont help you at all.
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Old 04-06-2009, 04:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thank you for the info. I will probably try and pull the door panel off this week and take a look at things. If I think I'll be able to do it myself, I probably will try. I don't really want to spend $375 on something I can do for $50 myself. Doesn't sound like too hard of a job, unless there are pop rivets, then I might be screwed. I've heard some people have pop rivets holding their window motors in. Not sure what to do about that if that is the case on mine, or why Ford would even use something like that to begin with.

Thank you.
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