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Go Back   Ford Forums > Ford Trucks, Ford SUVs & Ford Vans > Ford Ranger

Ford Ranger More than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.

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Old 04-21-2008, 02:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Ford Ranger Rotor question

Hello, I'm probably just being over cautious. but in order to change the front rotor on my 93 2.3.. when taking the crap out from under that cap.. do i just pull the pin straight out? I'm not talking about the pins that hold the calipers on.. and what exactly has to happen in order for me to slide the rotor off? thanks
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Old 04-21-2008, 04:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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2wd right?
Pull the caliper off, then pull the dust cover off, then take off the spindle nut, pull the rotor straight off. Its pretty simple. I'd reccomend getting a new cotter pin and a new seal.
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Old 04-22-2008, 01:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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yes thats what it seems like I have to do.. I was really kind of wondering if i can just pull that pin out that looks like its holding everything in. it looks like a weird type of pin.. will i break it if i pull it out with plyers?
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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okay got passed that part easily.. now something seems a little off to me.. when i took off that huge 27mm nut that holds the rotor on, it came off just about finger tight.. i put it back on finger tight, and it spins freely... i asked the guy at aid auto about it.. and he says it has to be on really tight.. so i put it on tight and the rotor doesn't spin.. is that nut really supposed to be on a little more than finger tight? because that nut basically holds the whole wheel on..
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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2 wheel drive right?

If so, tighten the bolt until the rotor doesn't move back and forth, at that point go just a little bit more, thenput your cotter pin in.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yup, thats what i ended up doin.. thanks fort he help
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Did you remember to repack the wheel bearings?
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Old 04-28-2008, 12:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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well the thing is.. i had the inner and outer bearings replaced over the past summer. i figured they would be fine if i just re-used them. The rotors were a lot easier than I figured.. i just asked so many questions because I didnt want to mess anything up.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hmm... well, I hope so. Anytime you remove the rotor/bearings, some grease will come out and they should be repacked to fill any gaps.
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'01 Ford Ranger 3.0 Super Cab, K&N Air, MaxFlow Exhaust, Oversize Tires
'93 Ford Taurus 3.0 (Ugh! What a MONEY PIT! Traded it in for the '01 Ranger)
'87 Ford Ranger 2.3 Super Cab (Owned it for 16 years until some clown t-boned me in it!)
'92 Ford Aerostar 3.0 (Gave it to Ex in Divorce Settlement) Hehe...
'74 Ford Maverick 250 ci (Great car! 110 mph on Autoban! Traded it in for the '87 Ranger)
'66 Ford Mustang 200 ci (Screwed up and SOLD IT!!)
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