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Go Back   Ford Forums > Ford Trucks, Ford SUVs & Ford Vans > Ford Ranger

Ford Ranger More than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.

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Old 05-02-2008, 12:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 89 Ranger 2.3 no spark

I have no spark. I tested at the coil pack. Hope that it's not the crank sensor, $120 for a truck w/190k miles is a little much to spend but if it points to that I'll look for something used.

I also replaced the timing belt and want to know if the CAM and CRANK pulleys are the only ones to set or does the idler pulley also have a position. There are points on the belt cover for the cam and crank but cannot find anything to point the idler to.

This is a 89 2.3L with coil packs, no distributor.

Is there a way to test the crank sensor at the clip so that I don't take it all apart? And also the part that is mounted to the intake manifold, which has a clip on top and a clip on the bottom that sends signal to the left and right coil packs, can that be tested? How on both?

Thank you Philip
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Old 05-02-2008, 02:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would also like and try to figure out what is causing the rpm gauge to be lower than the engine really is? At idle it reads 400 rpms and while driving it crawls up to about 1500 rpms during shifts when in reality it is about 3k

I had to take out the check engine bulb to pass inspection.

Sometimes, after running a few hours straight, the gauge would go to normal and check engine light would go out. But it has been a few years since it has gone to normal. At one time I was told it read the rpms of the coil packs so I replaced them and still the same. I have also tried a brand new tach and still did the same thing. Could it be the DIS that sends the signal to the tach. I would like to get it tested to make sure it is bad so I don't start throwing parts at this thing.
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Old 05-02-2008, 02:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The part on your intake manifold can be tested very easily at your local auto parts store. The cam sensor can be tested during cranking, put your DVOM to voltage and test across it. The lower shaft on the driver's side does need to be timed with the engine, as far as I know.
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Old 05-02-2008, 02:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There are 3 bolts in the ignition module and if you leave the one out that is hardest to get to the vehicle will not have spark.......Don't ask....lol

My tach does something similar and I can tap on the dash and it willn start working correctly.I may not have go it plug back in securely when I changed the bulbs.
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Is my DIS bad?

I took it to Pepboys, Strauss and two other local parts stores and they do not test it.

Finally went to AUTOZONE and they did the test. They ran 3 tests. Failed 2 and passed 1. The guy said he could not say if it is bad or good but since it failed twice isn't it bad?
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd say its bad.

Did it pass the first test and fail the last two? Many times a module will fail due to the heat built up inside the module.
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Get ready for the 351 boss build this summer, 4v closed chamber heads, 2.25/1.75 valves, .750 lift, 12.5:1 piistons, wieand tunnel ram, nitrous, I think its gonna roar!
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Tanks jonmark.

I found a few on ebay that say fit a taurus sho with the 3.0 The SHO ones are identical and will clip but I am unsure if they will work with the 2.3

If you know anything about these two being interchangeable would you please let me know so I can find something cheap to get a year or two more out of this beater ranger.

Part # on mine is E8TF-12A297-AA and one of the sho part #'s I found is F1SF-12A297-BA another sho is 1U2J-12K059-CA The last two letters went from AA to BA to CA as if they went through ugraded changes since it was first introduced, but I don't want to buy one that will not work on my 2.3
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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check out bwd.com and see if the part numbers are the same
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Old 05-06-2008, 09:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Tried bwd.com and it doesn't seem to be the site to look up part #'s. Is it misspelled?
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Old 05-06-2008, 10:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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BWD Automotive

Gave you the wrong site, sorry man
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93 Thunderbird 5.0 HO
89 Firebird L03
95 F150 XL

Get ready for the 351 boss build this summer, 4v closed chamber heads, 2.25/1.75 valves, .750 lift, 12.5:1 piistons, wieand tunnel ram, nitrous, I think its gonna roar!
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