Ford RangerMore than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.
I have a 99' stepside 4x4 5 speed v6 3.0. My abs light is on, no problems with the spedometer or driveability. Everything i have read on other posts has other issues associated with the abs light. Anyone know which sensor would need to be replaced if there are no other symptoms? Thanks for your help!
Do you know... do you have 4 wheel abs, or just RABS?
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BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
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Yeah, I suspect the same, at least up front.
In my 98 windstar there are five sensors (that I know of), one for each wheel, and one under the master cylinder. The master cylinder leaks a little onto that sensor and causes my abs light to come on. IT is a common problem and Ford has since slightly modified that sensor, I just haven't gotten around to swapping mine out, and just wipe it with a paper towel now and then.
Regarding the four sensors, one can check resistance and compare left to right. THey should be pretty close to each other. There should be a slight difference between front and back. When I checked mine three out of four were somewhat similar, and one was WAY different.
That's the quickest easiest to get you started.
If you have a lift, one can also test them by spinning the wheels at a rate of approx 5mph, and testing the output of the sensors to see if they put out similar AC current. Sure there are numbers that one should attain, but I don't know what they are. Again, they should be similar, I suppose if one is bad, it will be really bad, and obvious.
IF you try the above and it doesn't turn anything up, and you are still ready to tackle it I can get additional info for you.
BTW... Great post on the EGR valve.
__________________
BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
At the bottom of each post there is a little icon
Clicking it gives feedback to the moderators, and poster regarding which posts are most helpful.
Last edited by BroncoJoe19; 12-31-2008 at 06:40 AM..
Hey Bronco, I just noticed something today, not sure if it is related to the abs light or not. One out of every 5-10 times that i put my emergency brake on, the red brake light comes on on the dash, the other times it does not. The E brake seems to be working fairly well, will not hold on a steep upwards incline, but for the most part it holds. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
According to my Haynes manual:
During starting the RED brake light should briefly come on and then go off. If the RED light stays on, it indicates a problem in the main braking system, such as a low fluid level, or the parking brake is still on.
__________________
BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
At the bottom of each post there is a little icon
Clicking it gives feedback to the moderators, and poster regarding which posts are most helpful.
Back in the day-- 04, the red E-Brake stayed on, no matter if the e-brake was engaged or not. We took it in. They misunderstood or something because the work order reads that the ABS light was on and staying on. Supposedly they ran a test, and it showed that the rear ABS sensor need replaced.
It was replaced, and that "fixed" the problem.
Nowadays, the red E-brake light is constantly on. Use to, if you'd keep engaging and releasing the brake a few times it'd shut off. Now it just stays on constantly. Today I figured out why.
The "hammer" never hits the "button" that shuts off the light. The piece that was probably covering has been broke off, so now the "hammer" doesn't reach it. There is about half an inch between them. But if I barely press on the "button" the light goes off.
So it's not anything wrong with the brake really... just it doesn't reach the switch. The brake probably happened because the PB was never gently released.
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