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Ford Ranger More than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.

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Old 04-14-2009, 01:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2001 ranger edge v6 3.0 oil leak

yut, back again, another problem, pulled the truck into my warehouse, pulled out, left a 4 inch puddle of black oil, dope... changed the oil yesterday (1200 miles overdue...) checked for drippage this morning, and it looks like the little u shapped part next to the oil pan drain ( if the hood is north its 1 inch south of the spout on the oil pan) is dripping, apply pressure, it beads oil all accross, now the actuall question is what do i need to do to fix that gasket, do i need to pull the engine? or am i not seeing something also, im in hawaii, they do not beleive in Haynes manyals here so i cant even refenence that....
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I just fixed a God-awful oil leak on my 2001 Ford Ranger. To have it done by a professional, they wanted 670 dollars and needed to pull the transmission. I found that the U shaped gasket at the front of the engine had pushed itself completely out! A guy at work told me to clean it up real good and caulk the heck out of it.
I bought 2 cans of Gunk Engine Bright, a can of denatured alcolhol, a plastic spray bottle, a bunch of shop towels and some high temperature Permatex copper colored gasket making caulk.
I put the car up on jackstands. Sprayed the areadown real good with the Gunk. Wiped it down real good. Sprayed it again with Gunk and wiped it down again. Then I sprayed it down real good with the denatured alcohol. Wiped it down good and sprayed it again with the alcohol. Then I took q-tips dipped in alcohol and cleaned the area between the pushed out gasket and the engine. Then I let it dry good and applied a thin layer of caulk between the pushed out gasket and engine. Then with a screwdriver, I was able to push about half of the gasket back into place. Then I applied a good bead of caulk. All of this took place from below. I let the car sit on the jackstands for about 6 hours after caulking and let it down. I put 2 quarts of oil in to bring it back up to level and haven't dripped a drop since!
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Try to tighten the bolts in sequence in tiny amounts (use torque wrench) Autozone has manuals online for free and covers most years If they don't have yours just go down a few years the vulcan has been the same pretty much through the years.
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1991 Ford Probe LX 3.0 mtx


If you have intermittant running problems or a flat spot/buck/dying/cutting out while accelerating.
Do your self a favor and try some dedicated gas
line dryer, Double or even triple dose it, It's cheaper
then throwing parts at a problem that doesn't throw
codes!!
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Old 06-05-2009, 03:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ford had a TSB out about this. Do your self a favor if you replace the pan gasket get the one from Ford as it is a bit thicker and comes with new bolts. Did this once with aftermarket gasket set only to find out that it didn't stop my leak. Did it the second time with Ford parts 75,000 miles later no leaks.
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