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Ford Ranger More than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.

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Old 06-10-2009, 07:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Airbag Light is blinking code 32

I have a 2003 ford ranger and the airbag light is blinking a code 32 and then stays on. Does anyone know what this code means?
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Old 07-11-2009, 01:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i have the same problem on my 98 it means that the switch to shout off the passenger air bag the light in it is burnt out and a new thing is about 150 dollars but i just took mine apart and pulled the bulb off because it is wired to the surcet board a just used butt conecter and wired a new light on it
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Code 32 is a B1932 - Driver Air Bag Circuit Resistance High. Use the B1932 code and 'Ford Airbag Fault Codes' in a search and you will come across a bunch more information, I just found my code a few minutes ago.

What flashes are you getting to mean 32?

flash-flash-flash, pause, flash-flash-flash?
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Old 07-18-2009, 01:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Same problem with my 97 Expid. EB edition. Yes, rwall10597, mine flashs three times then two times then pause then repeats about 4 times and stays on. My brother said it sounds like a "clockspring" ...? How hard are these to replace AND will the light go off once it's fixed or do you have to reset it??
~Trista
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Any repair done on the steering wheel/column (like the clocksrping) should start by disconnecting the battery ground and waiting 30 minutes. This will pretty much guarantee that the air bag will not misfire and KILL YOU !

If you have replaced the correct part, the error code will be cleared and not return.
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I had codes 44 & 45 together, I had them read the codes at the shop. Theses are faults in the sensors in the pillars between the front and back doors. Interestingly, they said the odds were slim that both sides would fail at the same time, without a wreck obviously. We looked at the diagram, and the only point where the two wires come together is at the controller module, so really, the controller almost has to be where the problem is. He found code U2017/44 U2018/45, and a low voltage code, which we figured was from two years ago when I had my battery replaced, and totally unrelated. I was about to order a new module, around $140 online, but I realized Friday that my battery was getting weak again. It appears to be just a bad battery. But I suspect the voltage and the airbag could be connected. I've realized that when the battery kicks the engine right over, I don't get the airbag light, right away anyway, it could take 10 minutes. If I run the AC and headlights for a minute then try to start the engine, it chugs over, then the airbag light comes on immediately. I'm hoping once I get my battery replaced again, the airbag deal may straighten itself out, and that the low voltage is just making the module get errors. Anybody else see a relationship to voltage issues and airbag faults?

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Old 07-24-2009, 06:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Update - Added water to the battery, and took the connections off, brushed them for a second, put them back on good and tight, no more issue.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwall10597 View Post
Update - Added water to the battery, and took the connections off, brushed them for a second, put them back on good and tight, no more issue.
The best way to clean a battery is to mix up a solution of a couple of tablespoons of baking soda with water in a small containers (about a pint). Use an old paint brush (or auto parts cleaning brush) to liberally "paint" this all over the top of the battery. Use the brush to clean extra dirty areas. Let the solution drip down the sides and on to the battery tray. Be careful that none of the solution gets into the battery itself.

The solution will foam. This is good. Keep reapplying until the foaming stops or you are out. Then rinse with lots of water (garden hose.)

When the battery is good and dry (a day or so later) place a light coating of grease (dielectric grease is best , but axle grease is okay) on the terminals.

If you do this and top off the battery once a year the battery will last much longer. My 1998 E150 Club Wagon still has the original battery after 11+ years !!
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I replaced the door hindges on the drivers side and didnt tighten up the bolts to the sensor enough. got back in there and did a good job and the light went out.

but let me tell you, I had a hell of a good time messing with my wife on the way home today when she asked what it was and I told her that I got advise here on the net and they told me that the bags could discharge at anytime due to that flashing. She almost jumped into the back seat cause she was so scared.! That's one way I can get her to shut the hell up when i am driving. I might just get a little dip switch and install it for future use

I hope you guys/gals dont mind me posting here about lincoln marks, I see most of you have trucks. No Mark forums that I see.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Update on my escape. The issue came back, but low voltage was the culprit. The battery was low. At least I got a new one of those under warranty. I kept testing the new one each time I stopped, and it would read lower and lower each time, so it was pretty obvious the alternator had gone bad. The airbag light hadn't come back on, but I know it would if I let the battery get a little lower. The car is at the shop now having a new alternator put on since it appears as though you need to all but hold an Escape car on end and shake it to get the alternator off. I hope it does the trick!
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